Discovering more beyond the swans and kangaroos in Perth

You get the best views of both Perth and the Swan River from Kings Park. — Photos: DAVID BOWDEN

This wasn’t my first time to Perth in Australia, and having seen most of its iconic sights on previous visits, I set out to admire the city in a different light on my most recent trip.

The state capital of Western Australia is best viewed from Kings Park, a vast expanse of native forests, parklands and gardens elevated on a bluff just above the central business district (CBD) and overlooking the Swan River, whose estuary stretches lake-like near its mouth and the Indian Ocean.

The expanse of broad water across to the south of the city captured my imagination. Perth is located just inland from the coast, with the Swan River flowing into the ocean at Fremantle.

While flying in, the rural expanse of the Swan Valley unfolded as our aircraft came into land. The aircraft’s approach inspired me to hatch a plan to explore the Swan River from its mouth to its source. In doing so, I could admire the city’s numerous tourist sites, including the semi-rural parts of the Swan Valley and the heritage assets of the old Fremantle port.

I had planned to start in Fremantle and then explore the city before travelling into the Swan Valley. It was to be a relaxed few days of wandering, indulging and exploring using a variety of transportation modes.

As free as Fremantle

Perth enjoys a Mediterranean climate and is closer to Asia than Australia’s East Coast. While unmistakably Australian, and the closest Aussie hub for Malaysian travellers, it’s also the world’s most remote big city.

The nearest neighbouring cities are Adelaide in South Australia and Denpasar in Indonesia, both about 2,600km away.

Adventurous travellers could join the fabled Indian Pacific train that departs from Perth on its four-day, three-night, and 4,352km journey to Sydney in the New South Wales.

Fresh seafood by the docks in Fremantle is an essential experience for any visitor.

Fremantle was initially a free settlement in 1829, but it struggled to develop. In 1850, it accepted its first convicts, who were shipped in from Europe to provide cheap labour. Ironically, their first major project was the construction of Fremantle Gaol to house them.

Life in the colony’s early years was harsh for both the free settlers and convicts. They struggled against the unforgiving environment, with inadequate food supplies, harsh weather, and isolation. Convicts, both skilled and unskilled, formed the backbone of the workforce, constructing essential infrastructure like roads, public buildings, and the port, which became vital for the colony’s growth.

When gold was discovered in lively abundance in Kalgoorlie at the end of the 19th century, population numbers skyrocketed. In later years, much of the state’s agricultural productivity was, and still is, exported through Fremantle.

However, Fremantle went decidedly downmarket in the early 20th century, and it took a global sporting event to kick-start its redevelopment. In 1983, a young upstart Aussie crew ventured to the United States to claim the prestigious America’s Cup yachting trophy. In doing so, they earned the right to host the next event in Fremantle.

Fremantle’s grand Victorian buildings were then revived to make them welcoming for global yachting crews who flocked here for the 1987 race.

Immigration has played an important role in Fremantle, with the strong Italian fishing community operating numerous cafes and restaurants. Fremantle is now a tourist magnet with lots of trendy cafes, seafood restaurants, stylish boutiques, art galleries and smart pubs.

The Swan River empties into the Indian Ocean at Fremantle, and the next landfall is Durban in South Africa, almost 8,000km to the west.

Summer days are normally refreshed in the afternoon when winds change direction and sea breezes cool coastal parts. Known as the “Freo doctor”, these winds flow in from Fremantle to bring welcomed relief to Perth.

While Cottesloe, just to the north, is one of Perth’s finest swimming beaches, there are also some nice beaches to check out in Fremantle. I headed to Bathers Beach House in the late afternoon to swim and then admire the sunset while sipping a cool drink.

Ferries to Rottnest Island also depart from Fremantle to provide another reason to holiday in Perth.

First visited by the Dutch in the 17th century, the island was named “Rat’s Nest” because the of its best-known native animal, the quokka, was mistaken for an oversized rodent.

Today, the quokka is dubbed the “happiest” animal in the world, thanks to the creature’s facial features that resemble a smile.

The capital central

After exploring Fremantle and its nearby beaches, it was time to head upriver and into Perth city itself. I chose to stay at the Wonil Perth Hotel for its garden setting within the grounds of the University of Western Australia, and its views of the city.

From the hotel, I admired yachts and ferries on the river, joggers, cyclists and others on Segway tours along the river foreshore. I planned to enjoy the hotel’s garden-like surroundings before relocating to another property closer to the city centre.

While Perth’s fortunes wax and wane with fluctuating mineral prices, Perth’s downtown skyline is punctuated by the headquarters of many of Australia’s leading mining companies.

The impressive Bell Tower beside the Swan River in Perth.

Glistening modern buildings sparkling under the blue sky, abundant sunshine and a quality of light make Perth so appealing. Bill Bryson, in his book Down Under, Notes Of Perth wrote, “You will never see bluer city skies or purer sunlight bouncing off skyscrapers than here.”

After relocating to the Novotel Perth Murray Street, I found that it was even more convenient for me to explore the city. In nearby Yagan Square, Wirin, a sculpture of a Noongar Indigenous warrior, stands guard.

I soon appreciated that if Yagan Square is Perth’s new heart, the Elizabeth Quay redevelopment is its lungs, breathing new life into the Swan River waterfront.

Downtown Perth is being continuously rejuvenated with cool dining outlets, bars, retail, and entertainment options. Enlightened policies have activated alleyways and liberated laneways. Street art has transformed the city, and now, some office workers linger longer after work to relax in hip outlets.

The Ritz-Carlton Perth has a prominent Elizabeth Quay position with uninterrupted river views, especially from its fifth-floor bar, Songbird. The bar came highly recommended, so an essential sunset reservation was made to enjoy creative canapés and designer cocktails in a sophisticated setting.

My hotel was within walking distance of the attractions I wanted to see as well as shops, bars, some iconic coffee shops and restaurants. While the property is home to the Keishi Spa, it was its Miss Mi Perth Restaurant that I wanted to investigate further.

Miss Mi serves modern Asian dishes that pay homage to the region’s various grilling techniques. Some familiar dishes I enjoyed included lamb shoulder rendang and barbecued beef short ribs.

Perth parklands

While transformations regularly occur in Perth, the vast expanse of Kings Park remains mostly untouched. On the city’s western perimeter, the multi- purpose park is a reminder of what great city parks are all about, as it’s a playground, a venue for exercise, a botanical garden and a home for native animals and birds.

Extending over 400ha, Kings Park is one of the world’s largest inner-city parks. Its entrance is lined with an avenue of stately gum trees, and from its elevated position over the Swan River, pelicans and black swans (native to Western Australia) can be seen in the shallows below.

Perth is as cosmopolitan as most other large cities, and its sense of remoteness is only experienced beyond the CBD.

Not far from the city centre, the Swan River meanders through the suburbs and farmland and then eventually into forests in the Avon Valley, a major Swan River tributary.

Being in a small group and travelling into the Swan Valley beyond the reach of Perth’s public transport network, a decision was made to hire a Star RV Polaris 6 vehicle. The mobile home sleeps six adults (three double beds), so it was perfect, as it not only provided essential mobility but also accommodation and a place to prepare meals from the fabulous produce we were able to buy in the Swan Valley.

Our first stop was at the Vines Resort and Country Club, home to two 18-hole championship golf courses. There, its sunset kangaroo safari allowed us to enjoy the course’s natural beauty while getting close to one of Australia’s most famous animals.

Holidaymakers taking a walk with kangaroos on the green at a golf club during sunset.

We spent several days exploring the Swan Valley and staying in fully serviced caravan parks. Some of the highlights were a wine and canape tasting at Mandoon Estate, a wine tasting and lunch at Sandalford, sampling Farmers Ale brewed from farm-grown ingredients at Funk Brewshed, and sipping gins and vodkas flavoured by Australian botanicals at Old Young’s Distillery.

While Perth has a lot to offer visitors, it only covers a mere minute fraction of Western Australia. As we set about exploring the Swan Valley, we realised how much more there was to discover in Australia’s largest state.

Travel notes

How to get there: AirAsia flies to the Perth Airport from Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2 twice daily, or 14 times a week. The journey takes a little over five hours.

Getting around: Fremantle and Perth CBD are easily negotiated on foot. Travel from Perth CBD to Fremantle can be done on either a ferry down the river or by train.

While there is a ferry service from Perth CBD to Swan Valley vineyards such as Mandoon Estate and Sandalford, a vehicle is the best way to explore the expansive valley.

Star RV (starrv.com) offers a variety of motorhomes that provide excellent value for small-group travellers.

Where to stay: Generally, accommodation in Perth is affordable, with many properties falling in the mid-range price category (RM400-RM700). Of course, there are also a handful of well-known luxury properties like The Crown Towers, The Ritz-Carlton and COMO The Treasury.

In addition to using the Star RV onboard accommodation, the writer also stayed at the Wonil Perth Hotel – Handwritten Collection, and Novotel Perth Murray Street. You can check out The Vines Resort, too, which is set in a rural setting among fairways and grapevines.