Passengers taking up paddles in Crooked Arm. — Photos: FLORIAN SANKTJOHANSER/dpa
On board a ship in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand, we all rush to the bow for a chance to see the rare Fiordland penguin.
The captain manoeuvres the vessel closer to the rocky shore, allowing us to catch a glimpse of the distinctive pale yellow feathers above the penguin’s eye before it turns away.
We are in the Fiordland National Park, in the far south-west of New Zealand, an area which is known for its challenging weather. It has rainfall 200 days a year, with 7m falling on average.
There are also frequent storms in the region often referred to as the Roaring Forties, named after the strong westerly winds that occur in the Southern Hemisphere, generally between the latitudes of 40° and 50° south.
Most visitors opt for a brief trip to the renowned Milford Sound, but you can enjoy a far more tranquil experience on a mini-cruise in Doubtful Sound, including a night on board.
To reach Doubtful Sound, take a bus to Manapouri, then hop on a boat across the reservoir, grab another bus over a mountain saddle to Deep Cove, and there, the Fiordland Navigator awaits.
The three-masted ship is designed to resemble a traditional sloop.
As the vessel sets off, passengers are treated to views of the Browne Falls, one of the few permanent waterfalls in the area. Nature guide Divyesh Parmarm says most waterfalls form spontaneously after rain due to the steep rock faces.
Hall Arm is considered the most beautiful area in Doubtful Sound.
Doubtful Sound, the second largest and deepest of the 12 fjords in New Zealand’s South Island, offers a tightly scheduled programme for visitors. Activities include kayaking and dinghy tours, with the sea’s dark brown hue attributed to tannins from the trees.
The rainforest, untouched by logging, is home to various bird species, including the New Zealand falcon.
Parmarm says the trees’ shallow roots intertwine for support, but during storms or heavy rain, they can cause tree avalanches.
Captain Blake Reid adjusts the ship’s route daily according to the weather conditions, seeking sheltered spots within the fjord’s three arms.
In inclement weather, the Fiordland Navigator can moor in Precipice Cove.
Doubtful Sound, known as Patea by the Maori, was named by James Cook in 1770 as he was uncertain about navigating the fjord’s winds. Unlike Cook, Reid has motor power to enable him to steer the ship into the Tasman Sea, where passengers can spot fur seals on the Nee Islets.
The ship is cosy, with a bar, dining room, lounges, and observation decks. For dinner, there’s a buffet with plenty of options to pick from.
Parmarm gives us an engaging lecture with videos about the region’s dramatic weather and wildlife.
Later, we observe the starry sky and morning sunlight on the rock ridges.
Our cruise concludes with a visit to the Hall Arm, where the ship’s crew start the “Sound of Silence” ritual, as after all, Doubtful Sound is also known as The Sound of Silence.
They turn off the engines and generators and guests are asked to remain silent and still, creating a solemn and almost sacred moment. – FLORIAN SANKTJOHANSER/dpa
