A Turkish experience: Seven cities, 35 days, and two earthquakes


By SA MP

A sunset view of the Maltepe and Kartal districts from Yakacik Hill in Istanbul. — Photos: SA MP

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This big trip to Turkiye was initially for my retirement. But then a friend asked a few years ago: “Why wait? How sure are you that you’ll have the same health in five to seven years?”, and that prompted me to start planning for the holiday.

This was during the pandemic, when overseas travel was either not allowed or limited, so I had plenty of time to do my research and plan a detailed itinerary. When everything was finally sorted, and all travel bans were lifted, I went on my trip in early 2023.

Why Turkiye? As a “geo-nerd” or someone who is fascinated by geography, I yearned to experience varied landscapes, especially the mountains and high plateaus in winter. To me, Turkiye offered all that and more.

I managed to stretch my RM10,000 (including return airfare) budget over the 35 days that I was in Turkiye, never once having to fast or go to bed hungry. I also stayed at cheap hostels that came with breakfasts.

In Erzurum, the writer (far left) met a friendly kebab restaurant owner (second from left) and his three sons, who refused payment for his meal.In Erzurum, the writer (far left) met a friendly kebab restaurant owner (second from left) and his three sons, who refused payment for his meal.

Overall, the favourable currency exchange rate allowed me to explore seven cities across the country.

Istanbul boasts a mix of Roman and Ottoman architectural wonders. Straddling two continents (Europe and Asia), the city is picturesque and breathtaking. Street cats and dogs are so loved and cared for here that it’s not uncommon to see them napping inside shops and restaurants.

The trace of early Ottoman history is very prominent in Bursa, where I stayed in an old Ottoman-style house. Even in winter, Bursa remains green due to its evergreen pine trees.

The writer at Eskisehir, where the city is littered with unique golden sculptures like this one. — Photos: SA MPThe writer at Eskisehir, where the city is littered with unique golden sculptures like this one. — Photos: SA MP

Eskisehir’s vibrant atmosphere is youthful, being a university town. Street art depicting humble living is a must-see in this place.

And while many find the capital city, Ankara, plain, I could feel its ancient soul while exploring the hilly suburbs and the famous Ankara Castle.

Erzurum, the Land of Dadas, sits high on a plateau surrounded by mountains. It was blanketed in snow when I arrived, coinciding with a cold air mass from the Balkans/Russia that caused temperatures to drastically drop, and snow to fall across Turkiye.

The bus journey from Erzurum to Sivas was exciting because one could see endless snowy valleys, mountains, and charming villages. Sivas impressed me with its neat streets, free from big city chaos.

Both Erzurum and Sivas are well-known for their 13-14th century Seljuk structures.

Although the earthquakes took place about 100km to 300km from Kayseri, everyone in the city could still feel it.Although the earthquakes took place about 100km to 300km from Kayseri, everyone in the city could still feel it.

On Feb 6, 2023, when the tragic twin-earthquakes occurred in the country, I was in Kayseri, about 100km-300km from the epicentres.

The first quake woke me up at 4.20am. The chandelier above my bed shook for a few minutes. Heavy snow was falling as I frantically put on my jacket and boots.

While dashing down the stairs with other guests, we felt another strong tremor. It almost threw me off balance, but I managed to make my way to the middle of the main street, along with everyone else.

We waited there in the heavy snow for about half an hour. No building collapsed in Kayseri, but hundreds did in the Gaziantep, Hatay, and Kahramanmaras provinces, which were nearly 300km away.

An hour later, I decided to pray and take shelter in Kursunlu Camii, a 16th-century Ottoman mosque. It seemed like a strong and safe structure.

At Anitkabir, Ankara, the reader captured this picture of a security officer adjusting the uniform of a guard.At Anitkabir, Ankara, the reader captured this picture of a security officer adjusting the uniform of a guard.

Subsequent quakes were felt while venturing outside at 1.30pm, and again later at 3.30pm, inside the mosque.

That afternoon, I saw a high-rise apartment building, just 200m from my hotel, that had been badly damaged by the quakes. It had also tilted.

Authorities evacuated the building and cordoned off the perimeter, while some people took shelter at the mosque.

By 4.30pm, the hotel owner asked all guests to leave Kayseri, fearing the building might not be safe any more.

At the bus terminal, many were trying to leave the area. Buses were scarce, forcing me to sleep in the terminal overnight before securing a bus to Istanbul the next night.

Rather than staying in the crowded terminal, I went on the tram and ventured back to the city centre. Things seemed to be returning to normal.

I took a short bus ride southward towards Mount Erciyes and discovered Hacilar, a beautiful winter wonderland town about 400m higher than Kayseri’s city centre.

I took as many pictures and videos as I could of the places I went to, and of the quakes I experienced, and posted them on my YouTube channel. The videos serve as a digital album for myself, my friends and family, and I do hope they inspire other viewers too.  

The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.

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