Ride the old train in Kenya to see the world's last two northern white rhinos

Visitors will find a tranquil region full of wildlife and breath-taking scenery off the beaten path at Nanyuki. — Photos: JULIAN HILGERS/dpa

Every Friday at 9am a train rolls out of the Kenyan capital Nairobi, heading north-east to Nanyuki, a city at the foot of Mount Kenya. The old locomotive sounds its horn right on schedule before it rumbles out of the central train station.

Just to be clear: If you want to get there quickly, the Nanyuki train is not for you. Crawling along the tracks, the train needs a good seven-and-a-half hours to cover the 180km distance. A bus will take you to the city in three. Still, the longer journey by train is worth it.

Tickets are sold right on the platform or on board the train. “That’s why we encourage passengers to check in at least one hour early before train departure time,” the railway’s website advises.

The advisory seems hardly necessary, however. At departure, the five cars are scarcely filled.

Factories to farmlands

The train soon leaves the high-rises buildings of Nairobi behind and rolls slowly through the outer districts, passing factories, residential areas and trash heaps. Dust and stench penetrate the railcar’s interior. But after a while, the industrial areas give way to fields of maize, beans and cabbage. And the train starts filling up.

“For many people from the villages, the train is cheaper,” the locomotive driver explains. A second-class ticket costs 200 Kenyan shillings, about US$1.65 (RM7.70). Men, women and children sit crowded together in two rows facing each other, as on a subway train. All around are handbags, assorted items and provisions for the journey.

Riding the Nanyuki train is a good way to slow down. The closer it comes to its destination, the greener and hillier the landscape becomes. On its narrow single track the train almost resembles an amusement park ride, with children in school uniforms waving at the passing cars and adults taking pictures with their smartphones alongside the tracks.

Off the beaten path

Desmond works as a guide at Mount Kenya, leading groups up the many different peaks.

The train arrives right on time in Nanyuki. The city of about 50,000 is relatively unknown to tourists. For a small-sized Kenyan city, Nanyuki is surprisingly quiet and relaxed. On the horizon beyond the city towers Mount Kenya with its 5,199m-high Batian Peak. By the afternoon, it’s mostly shrouded in thick clouds.

Mount Kenya is the second-highest mountain range in Africa after the legendary Kilimanjaro. A climbing tour takes two to six days depending on which of the many peaks you choose, the route taken and the experience level of the climbers.

But even just a day excursion is rewarding. For example, there’s the Sirimon Route that starts a few kilometres north-east of Nanyuki. The tour sets out from Camp Moses, at 3,300m. The temperature is 13°C and a strong wind is blowing, but the sun is shining down from a cloudless sky and lights up the peaks of the mountain range. Perfect hiking weather.

“There are elephants, zebras, baboons and even leopards here in the national park,” says our guide, Desmond. But either they don’t live up here at this elevation or else the animals are good at hiding. We only hear a groundhog screeching in the distance.

Day trip adventure

The trail leads through a mountain area of grass, cliffs and different kinds of lobelia plants which give the landscape the appearance of the steppes of Mexico – except at an elevation of 3,500m. The route is neither particularly steep nor particularly challenging, except for the distance and the altitude. The circular route covers 21km and leads as high as 4,100m, with the rocky peak of Mount Kenya always in view.

The busiest months for tourism at Mount Kenya are August and September, or else December, Desmond says. That’s when it can get really crowded.

“Sometimes there are 350 people here in a single day. Plus the guides and porters.”

The last white rhinos

But the region around Nanyuki has more to offer than Mount Kenya. One of the attractions is the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. The park shelters the last two surviving northern white rhinos as well as the more than 140 equally-endangered black rhinos. The park is also home to zebras, elephants, giraffes and chimpanzees.

Meanwhile, the Ngare Ndare Forest offers natural pools and waterfalls for relaxation, as well as a treetop trail for some thrill. And naturally many other animals. In addition, particularly in the northern part of Nanyuki there are many further private wildlife protection areas to visit. But it will always cost you: For most things in Kenya you need an entrance ticket, guide and car. A day pass for Mount Kenya alone costs US$52 (RM242).

If you want to see many animals for little money and without a guide, you should visit the Animal Orphanage at Mount Kenya, a shelter for those animals which would otherwise be unable to survive the wilderness. The entrance fee is 2,000 shillings (US$16.50/RM76.70), with all money going to the orphanage’s upkeep.

The Nanyuki train returns to Nairobi on Sundays, departing at 9am. Those who wish to remain longer can also travel back by bus or taxi. While that’s more than twice as fast as taking the train, it’s also definitely only half as scenic. – dpa