The BTS bus stop at Jumunjin Beach in Geungnam is immensely popular with the group’s fans, the Army. — Photos: Gangwon Province
Lockdowns during the pandemic closed the door to South Korea but many homebound people around the world sought refuge in K-drama and other K-content.
With borders open now, K-content fans can finally make their pilgrimage to the home country... but don’t expect tall, handsome oppas and winsome girls at every corner. Everyone speaks in Korean but hours of K-drama does not confer fluency and there are no subtitles either.
BTS was at the White House in US the week we were there, so there were no “delulu” hopes of bumping into them on the streets.
But it’s still fun to be in South Korea and have plenty of lightbulb “just like in K-drama” moments, be it sipping iced Americano for breakfast or hearing familiar phrases of “annyeong haseyo” and “kamsahamida” or cheering on soju bomb demos.
The lone tree next to a reservoir in Wanju draws the crowd because BTS took a photo here for their 2019 Summer Package shoot.South Koreans welcome back international travellers with its opening of quarantine-free travel in April. Our tour guide said we were the first group she’s hosted since the pandemic hit. South Korea was cited as an example of prudent management of Covid-19, and has managed to keep infections under control..
Like everywhere else, curfews were inevitable and economic activities were curtailed.
These days, quarantine requirements have been lifted and it’s largely business as usual though indoor masking is still mandatory.
Malaysian travellers to South Korea have to show proof of vaccination – including a booster shot (print out your MySejahtera certificate) – and a negative Covid-19 PCR test results taken 48 hours, or RTK test taken 24 hours, prior to departure.
They must also apply for a K-ETA (electronic travel authorisation) and also a Q-code (to generate a QR code with the required vaccination and other information). Both these applications can be easily done online and were hassle-free, and resulted in a quick entry process at the airport immigration for us.
Beginning June 1, asymptomatic travellers can proceed to their destinations after clearing immigration. But all visitors must undergo PCR testing within three days of arrival. Travellers with Covid-19 symptoms will be tested at the airport and transferred to a treatment facility if they are Covid-positive. Do check for updates before you travel as rules can change.Knowing that we had to take a PCR test on arrival in Seoul, I opted for a PCR test rather than an RTK test before departure. It’s to minimise the possibility of a false positive result, and avoid the risk of testing positive while travelling in South Korea. I also kept my mask on at all times and sanitised my hands frequently at the airport and in the plane.
Getting a taste of dakgalbi. Mealtimes are always a treat in South Korea.Still, there was some anxiety while waiting for the results of the post-arrival test. Luckily the result notification took only a few hours. Once we were in the clear, we left all Covid-19 worries behind and savoured our first trip abroad since the pandemic hit, a media familiarisation trip organised by the Korea Tourism Organisation, and partnered with Korean Air.
In South Korea, things are pretty much back to normal. Like in Malaysia, there are no more temperature checks or check-ins for contact tracing. Most places are open and restrictions on operating hours have been lifted. The weather in June was beautiful, with sunny days and cool temperature, a pleasant respite from our hot weather.
The healing road
Like elsewhere, tourism came to a halt during the pandemic but the Korea Tourism Organisation was not idling during the lockdown. They have been busy strategising and preparing new travel packages for post-lockdown tourists. Some attractions, such as cable car rides, are so new even our bus driver had to ask for directions to get to the place.
During the trip, local tourism office representatives were ever present to introduce their area’s new attractions, complete with brand new brochures.
In a departure from the usual visits to Seoul, Busan or Jeju, we were whisked on a road trip to discover the charm of its lesser-known provinces. Our first stop was Jeonju, a two-hour drive from Seoul. Tourists come here to visit the traditional Hanok Village, an enclave of streets lined with some 800 traditional Korean buildings that now house homestays, cafes, restaurants, shops and craft workshops.
You can get dressed in a hanbok – the traditional Korean dress – for a fee at the rental shops here, and walk around imagining you are in a Joseon period drama.
Jeonju has the largest enclave of traditional houses in South Korea, and its hanok village is popular with visitors.Meanwhile, Jeonju is known for its makgeolli (rice wine), and there are restaurants here where each order of a makgeolli kettle is served with a variety of dishes and nibbles. If you order the second kettle, you’re served again with different dishes.
We didn’t get a chance to try this but we had a good time attending a workshop making moju, a local liqueur made with makgeolli and infused with dates, fruits and other ingredients. It’s said to be created by a mother who wanted to lessen the discomforts of hangovers for her son.
From Jeonju, we drove to nearby Wanju. This county in North Jeolla province was always known for its tranquil countryside but people started visiting in droves after BTS shot its 2019 Summer Package here, earning it the reputation of being the super group’s “healing spot”. The Wibingsangseong stone fortress and a lone pine next to a reservoir where BTS took photos have become BTS Army’s pilgrimage stops.
From Wanju, we went to Danyang, a mountainous area of lakes and rivers. To enjoy the spectacular view, take a slow walk up the spiral trail that takes you closer to the treetops at the Mancheola Skywalk. For a more thrilling viewing of the mountains and lakes, strap up and try the zipline. The takeoff is a bit scary but the rest of the zipline is an easy ride.
South Korea is 70% mountainous but you can leave your hiking shoes at home. You can enjoy the aerial views easily as you can go on cable cars (some with see-through glass floors) at places such as Cheongpung in Jecheon and Samaksan, near Chuncheon.
Hello, Gangwon
The mountains were of course spectacular but I was happiest to see the sea as we approached Gangneung in Gangwon province. Our first stop was of course the BTS bus stop at Jumujin Beach. It’s the location where the Bangtan boys posed for their You Never Walk Alone album cover, and shot the music video for the single, Spring Day. The weather was perfect the afternoon we were there and the atmosphere was convivial even though there was a queue.
The shooting site for 2016’s Goblin series attracts fans keen to re-enact a famous scene.We didn’t linger around as we were heading to another famous K-drama’s iconic shooting site. The breakwater at Jumujin Beach was where the character Ji Eun-tak in the Goblin series accidentally summoned the... Goblin for the first time while she was sitting there by herself with a birthday cake in her lap. At the height of the drama’s popularity, Goblin fans could even rent a buckwheat bouquet and a red scarf to reenact the same scene for their photos. Even though the walkway is craggy and uneven, and the waves splash at those standing at this site, it’s always a full house here.
Gangwon with its picturesque sceneries is the location of many K-drama shoots, and you can get a booklet with a full list of locations and go off on a Hallyu road trip. The booklet even lists out the public transportation routes to these locations.
With its long stretch of beaches and proximity to Seoul, Gangneung is a popular getaway. At night, it is most pleasant to stroll along Anmok Beach, which is where Gangneung’s famous coffee street is located – there are about 40 cafes here!
Gangneung’s coffee is reputed to be the best in South Korea supposedly because water from the Pyeongchang River and water in Gangneung are famous for their clean taste. I didn’t take to iced Americano but I did like the sweet potato latte, or goguma latte.
An immersive multimedia experience makes the Arte Museum in Geungnam a memorable visit.Gangwon is also touted as a food destination, and its traditional markets are highly recommended as they boast of food from the mountains, fields and sea. We had a delicious tofu hot pot, followed by a gelato made with tofu at Gangneum, and it was a most satisfying dinner.
But then again, mealtimes in Korea are always good experiences with its feasts of sumptuous main course and assortment of kimchi and side dishes.
Another attraction in Gangneung is the Arte Museum, the largest immersive media art exhibition in South Korea which offers a multisensory experience with its play of sounds, lights and scents. As you walk from room to room, you will “experience a metaverse”, according to the gallery’s theme. It’s definitely worth experiencing, and chalks up yet another reason to visit Gangwon and to revisit South Korea.
