This is a place where the ancient jostles for space with the new: Luxury hotels are fronted by dusty roads bustling with bicycles, scooters and tuktuk, and the ancient treasure that is Angkor Wat is mentioned by tourists in the same breath as Pub Street, famous for US$1 (RM4) beers and an incredibly happening nightlife.
My tour guide himself personified this contradiction – decked out in Converse sneakers and clutching his iPhone, he looked completely at home in the temple complex of Angkor Wat surrounded by thousand-year-old carvings of apsara, the Buddhist spirit of clouds and water.