In Malaysia, modestwear has long been part of the visual fabric of daily life – from dressing up for the office and family gatherings to everyday activities.
A design language shaped by climate, culture and the cadence of modern womanhood, it has become an everyday wardrobe which balances tradition with modern sensibility.
Silhouettes once considered classic are being subtly reworked, with heritage references sitting alongside contemporary cuts.
According to Cognitive Market Research, a global research and consulting firm, the global modest clothes market is experiencing robust growth, driven by demographic shifts, cultural trends and evolving fashion sensibilities.
Valued at US$106.7bil (RM465.2bil) in 2021, the market is set to reach US$208.1bil (RM813.46bil) by 2033.
Zalora head of modestwear Mia Lim notes that the demand for modest fashion is substantial, extending beyond festive seasons to become a significant, sustained trend over the past years.
“In response to this rising demand, a growing number of brands are expanding their product offerings in this segment,” says Lim. “Consequently, our available modest fashion assortment has increased by 10-15% over the years to meet this market need.”
“Today’s customers prioritise versatility, seeking pieces they can wear beyond festivities. They are adept at mixing and matching these items with their existing wardrobe for office or casual wear,” says Lim.
For designers and brands navigating this space, modest wear is a serious, competitive and culturally significant category that reflects how Malaysian women live day to day.
Designed for real life
Malaysia’s hot and humid weather can be unrelenting, and with many women adopting multiple roles in a day, designs have to be practical.
Designer Uzair Shoid says that creating pieces for Malaysian lifestyles is about understanding the rhythm of our climate, our days and the many roles women move through.
“I start with lightness and fluidity, choosing silhouettes and fabrics that breathe, flow, and adapt to tropical living,” says Uzair.
“Malaysian women are constantly in motion, balancing work, family and self, often within the same day. My designs are created to transition with them polished yet relaxed, structured yet comfortable.”
Qistina Zubairi, designer for the brand Zalia, creates pieces that are versatile and transitional with minimal styling changes.
“The design range varies from heavy and glam to designs that are breathable and laid back, suitable for the many characters, lifestyle and fashion preferences,” says Qistina.
“For the laid back range, which is more suitable to the Malaysian weather, I prioritise breathable fabrics and silhouettes that allow airflow and comfort throughout the day.”
Read more: How modern-day abayas and kaftans stay true to modestwear codes
With Lubna, designer Miza Nazlea puts herself in the wearer’s shoes.
“I focus on breathable, comfortable fabrics, modesty without heaviness and silhouettes that move easily. Each piece is made to be polished enough for work, practical for commuting and daily tasks, and elevated for celebrations, with minimal styling effort and re-wearability,” says Miza.
Hanya chief marketing officer and co-founder Tan Veen Dee uses a lot of linen for its breathability and sustainability properties.
“We also prioritise ensuring the outfit can be worn separately, even after the festive season, that it can be worn in their daily lives too,” she says.
Marrying tradition and modernity
While modestwear continues to evolve, it remains deeply rooted in memory.
For many designers, modern iterations are not about discarding the past, but about carrying it forward in ways that feel relevant to a new generation.
“Timeless design comes from strong foundations: proportion, craftsmanship and purpose. Once those are right, newness becomes a refinement rather than a distraction,” says Uzair.
When designing for his namesake label, he focuses on evolving ideas instead of chasing trends.
“Small shifts in silhouette, texture or styling can make a piece feel current while still holding long-term value. True longevity in fashion comes from designing with intention, creating pieces that feel relevant now, but still meaningful years down the line,” he adds.
Celebrated designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi notes that for her, it is essential to continuously research and understand the current “feel-good factor”.
“I achieve this by travelling extensively and engaging with people of all ages and lifestyles. This helps me ensure that designs remain fresh and relevant while consistently adhering to my core DNA, which is paramount,” she says.
Maslea’s Suraya Sharifuddin uses her memories as a design template, thinking of modestwear as not just dressing for the day, but feeling a connection to what we know and remember.
“Many of our shapes and details echo what we grew up seeing, kebayas in our grandmother’s wardrobe, classic kurung lines, familiar lace and textures,” says Suraya.
To her, newness means thoughtful reinterpretation so that designs remain relevant, wearable and meaningful.
Tan notes that having a very outspoken fashion community is a good thing, as this helps the brand design what customers like.
“Little do they know, the comment sections are usually what shape our new collections. Sell-through rates (the percentage of inventory sold during a specific time) are important for us to make sure we produce clothing that is in demand instead of it going to waste,” says Tan.
Not just a niche
Consumers are now building modest wardrobes that extend beyond celebration – investing in workwear, elevated basics and versatile sets that can be worn year-round.
With growing competition, stronger online platforms and increasing global attention, modestwear has matured into a serious and sustained market category.
Qistina recalls that in the beginning, she assumed modestwear would just peak around festive periods.
“But the turning point came when I started noticing year-round, many rising brands had repeat purchasing behaviour among their audience. These women were willing to invest in quality, fit and design specialty. Nowadays, customers aren’t just buying for occasions, they are building everyday wardrobes,” she says.
Suraya has never thought of modestwear as a niche and doesn’t think of it as a business in the traditional sense.
“I realised its reach was meaningful when I saw how women responded to what we made. They were wearing our designs beyond festive seasons, bringing them into their daily lives and sharing them with friends and family,” she says.
“It has always been about the joy of seeing women dressed in something that reflects their identity, their culture, and the way they live.”
Tom, who has been involved in global Islamic and modestwear shows, has observed a significant global surge in interest and sales.
“Major brands, including Dior and Dolce & Gabbana, have started incorporating modestwear into their collections. I even have designer contacts in Europe who consult me for the correct modest-compliant designs,” she notes.
“In Malaysia, modestwear has a broad appeal, often worn by non-Muslims. Its appeal is rooted in its loose-fitting nature, like a loose kimono worn over jeans or shorts, which can be fully buttoned up for appropriate venues,” she adds.
Read more: Fun designs, colours and accessories? Modestwear in Malaysia can be trendy
Keeping it inclusive
Behind the elegance of flowing silhouettes lies a more complex design challenge, which is creating garments that are universally flattering.
Proportion, drape and balance become critical when designing for diverse body types, particularly in garments that use more fabric and movement.
Uzair says inclusivity is something he approaches with a lot of intention, especially in modestwear where fit and proportion matter so much.
“In terms of sizing and fit, the challenge is designing pieces that feel comfortable and confident across diverse bodies while still maintaining the integrity of the silhouette,” he says.
“Modest wear requires more fabric, more movement and careful attention to proportion. One small change can affect how a garment falls entirely.”
“Representation is equally important to me. I want women to see themselves reflected in the brand, not just one body type or one definition of beauty. The ongoing challenge is balancing inclusivity with craftsmanship and consistency, but it’s a responsibility I take seriously as the brand continues to grow,” he adds.
For Lubna, which offers sizes from XS all the way up to 5XL, the brand tries to include something for everyone.
“We offer multiple silhouettes for everyone of different shapes and sizes,” says Miza.
“We try our best to make sure not only are the pieces flattering to the person wearing it, but also gives them confidence whilst incorporating elements that are considered trendy during the season,” she adds.
Today, modestwear is built for real life, in the form of pieces that honour tradition while embracing the rhythm of modern life.
