It’s him: Parmigiani (left) playfully pointing at Terreni during a photo shoot.
Come next week, watch aficionados will descend upon Geneva in Switzerland for Watches and Wonders 2024, a trade show celebrating watchmaking excellence.
Parmigiani Fleurier is among the 54 exhibiting brands to present their season’s highlights.
The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has prepared a unique artistic installation dubbed the Parmigiani Fleurier Odyssey, according to the event’s website, which promises to be “an intimate celebration of time, combining horological heritage and minimalist aesthetics”.
Though nudged to give a hint of what to expect at the event, Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni prefers to remain tight-lipped.
Still, he’s quick to assure that there will be something for watch enthusiasts to look forward to.
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 will start April 9 and is open to the public the final 3 days from April 13 to 15. — Photo: WATCHES AND WONDERS
The year 2024 will be an important one for the brand, Terreni says through an email interview.
“It is the third Watches and Wonders fair after the launch of the Tonda PF, which is still a ‘baby’ in the watchmaking industry.
“Therefore, we must be very disciplined in nourishing its iconicity and respecting the clients who have just received their watch, and that they must feel cool with it for a long time.
“I always say that nobody needs another timepiece in the market. There are plenty. So if you do launch a new watch, it better has something to say,” he adds.
In Parmigiani Fleurier’s case, Terreni says, “I trust you will not be disappointed because we have an important news up our sleeve.”
Tonda PF Xiali Calendar from Parmigiani Fleurier in 42mm case with Chinese calendar and moonphase.
The Tonda PF collection was launched in the fall of 2021. Anchored to a quest for purity both in the aesthetics and technical features, the collection marked the brand’s return to the forefront of fine watchmaking.
Last month Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its latest iteration of the Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar, which features stainless-steel case, platinum bezel and a viridian green dial with gold accents.
The decision to incorporate Hijri Perpetual Calendar into the Tonda PF collection underscores the haute horlogerie manufacture’s commitment to innovation and diversity within its offerings, says Terreni.
The Tonda PF Xiali Chinese Calendar, Tonda PF Gregorian Annual Calendar and Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar complete a trilogy, showcasing the brand’s pioneering spirit in crafting timepieces that resonate with different cultural backgrounds and traditions.
“This trilogy not only celebrates the intricacies of various cultural calendars but also reflects Parmigiani Fleurier’s dedication to embracing and honoring diverse cultural heritages through horological craftsmanship,” Terreni explains.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s Hijri Perpetual Calendar joins the Tonda PF collection.
“I have always been impressed by how time was read in the different cultures around the world, and I am proud to express it through our different calendars.”
Parmigiani Fleurier was founded by Michel Parmigiani in 1996 in Lausanne, after having devoted two decades to restoring antique timepieces and designing complex timekeeping creations of his own.
In January 2021, Terreni was appointed as the brand’s CEO after spending 20 years at Bulgari’s watch division.
Milan native Terreni has his wife to thank for his foray into the industry – he decided to live with her (who was then his girlfriend) in Switzerland years ago, and the move led him to discover his love for horology.
Offering his frank insights on Parmigiani Fleurier, he says collectors has always been sentimental towards the brand, but it had at one point lost touch with its clientele.
The outdoors of Watches and Wonders venue in Palexpo, Geneva. — Photo: WATCHES AND WONDERS
“Parmigiani Fleurier was lacking a recognisable product. There were three collections, but none of them were really successful commercially.”
Terreni’s priority was thus to create a collection that reflected the soul of the brand and appealed to connoisseurs who, according to his descriptions, “have a sense of high-quality watchmaking and understatement at the same time.”
And that was how the Tonda PF was created.
“When I arrived, my mission was to work on the products,” says the CEO. He continues, “I started during the (Covid-19) pandemic, and as odd as it might seem, it was an unexpected chance because I was able to spend time with the product team and work on understanding deeply the values of the maison and its clients, and develop the Tonda PF collection.”
Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante’s innovative on-demand countdown timer for minutes made its world premiere in 2023.
They started on the design at the end of January 2021 and launched the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in September that year.
“This is one of the proudest moments I have because we all worked very closely to make it happen,” Terreni tells StarChrono.
“The conception and success of the Tonda PF line signifies a pinnacle, not only as an embodiment of our values, but also in the alignment and synchronisation of our team during challenging times.”
Terreni has said in previous interviews that Parmigiani Fleurier holds fast to the belief that not everything has already been invented in watchmaking, and that there are still new functions to be invented.
Since launching the Tonda PF collection, the brand has presented two “world’s first” with the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante in 2022 and the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante last year.
The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante features a brilliant implementation of dual time-zone complication, while the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante offers a creative on-demand tracking of elapsed minutes. These, says Terreni, are the first two creations of others to come in the future.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, launched in 2022, is the perfect instrument for globetrotters juggling time zones.
“They share the pure idea of simplifying the complications and having them come to life when the owner needs them.
“However, it is not imaginable to launch a world premiere every single year, especially when the last has just started to be delivered,” he acknowledges, stressing that Parmigiani Fleurier has a plethora of ideas which they will work hard to bring to life.
These world premieres speak of the brand’s unwavering commitment to preserving the centuries-old traditions of Swiss watchmaking while embracing innovation, which sets Parmigiani Fleurier apart from other brands and players in the field.
“This is the core of Michel’s philosophy. Restoration is a source of knowledge, not a cage to be stuck with.
“We must learn the art of mechanics to innovate and move the boundaries of watchmaking, both aesthetically and technically, while respecting the tradition. Luckily there is no recipe.
Terreni: The brand has an important news up our sleeve, to be revealed at Watches and Wonders 2024. — Photos: PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
“In the end, it is a question of personal sensitivity and education,” Terreni notes.
And what would be the biggest challenge for the industry in the years ahead?
“Luxury is growing as a business in an impressive way, notwithstanding slowdowns that are cyclical.
“However, the more people have access to luxury products, the more brands will be stretched, and when their exclusivity is diluted, true luxury clients will look for differentiation.
“This may bring the most affluent and savvy client to look for brands that are authentic in their value proposition and, why not, maybe expression of a non-Western culture,” he opines.
