Collaborations in the fashion industry are more popular than ever. Every month (or even week), you will hear announcements of special collections created in partnership between one label and another.
The aim is, of course, to create hype. The combination of two fanbases can expand a specific market and drive sales.
That said, it seems to spur creativity too.
“I find that collaborations bring a new level to existing brands in the form of a remix,” says Malaysian womenswear designer Alia Bastamam.
“That’s when two established aesthetics – sometimes complementary, sometimes opposing – come together and blend into a completely new product for both brands.”
Alia recently partnered with local footwear brand Machino for a collection (pictured on the cover).
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According to Alia, working together in such a way ensures the industry does not get stale.
“Fashion has come a long way in the world and sometimes it feels like everything has been done before,” she explains.
She feels this is where collaborations can help keep things fresh.
“It’s a very important move in the fashion industry. The scene is always about the ‘now’ and moving forward to what’s ‘next’, while always staying true to your ‘core’.”
Collaborations are not exactly new. H&M has worked with luxury fashion houses annually since 2004 (the Karl Lagerfeld brand being the first).
When Marc Jacobs was Louis Vuitton’s creative director, he introduced the Stephen Sprouse collection.
The 2001 collaboration with artist/fashion designer Sprouse featured a classic monogram canvas revamped with graffiti. It became a staple of Louis Vuitton for over 20 years.
In 2021, Fendi worked with Kim Kardashian’s Skims shapewear brand. It was a case of strange bedfellows, as the two brands stood at opposing ends of design aesthetic.
Yet, the collaboration reportedly raked in US$1mil (RM4.65mil) in profits within minutes of launching. More than 300,000 people signed up for the waitlist.
It just shows why collaborations are such a big deal – more so now, than ever.
In all forms
Collaborations need not necessarily only result in fashion collections. Brands can also work together in other ways.
In November, Malaysian social enterprise Earth Heir launched a store with The Sea Monkey Project.
Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, next to Central Market, Sustain.ed Centre supports local artisans. It sells Malaysian-made products that bridge the craft, art and fashion worlds.
Earth Heir founder, Sasibai Kimis, says collaborative engagements bring together new perspectives – as well as innovations when faced with challenges and limitations.
“It’s like a stretching of the minds to create something new because of how different each brand or organisation may be.”
Each partner in a collaboration can bring something new to the table.
In the case of The Sea Monkey Project, it designs and builds mobile 3-in-1 plastic recycling machines, with over 200 machines placed all over the world.
Earth Heir is a marketplace for social impact, eco positive products made by various communities in need in Malaysia.
The hope is that Sustain.ed Centre will be able to spread their shared message.
“This complementary partnership of growing awareness about social impact, ethical business and sustainability brings together a powerful combination of building community, learning, innovation and empowerment,” Kimis notes.
There is also last month’s collaboration between South-East Asia fashion platform Dia Guild and local jewellery brand Talee Studio.
The two co-organised a gift-wrapping workshop in KL, with the aim of championing sustainable practices.
One of Dia Guild’s co-founders, Aisha Hassan, stresses that it is not merely a case of jumping on the bandwagon for brands.
“The Malaysian fashion industry is abundant with collaborations, not necessarily because it is a big trend, but rather because brands are increasingly beginning to realise that partnering with others can be both a creative and commercial boon.”
She adds that Dia Guild views such efforts as vital and fulfilling.
“Collaborations are here to stay,” Aisha says.
“In that respect, Malaysia is similar to its global counterparts in that many small businesses or independent designers are continually trying to innovate what they bring customers, through collaborating with others.”
Choosing the right partner
Collaborations can also bring about problems. When Kanye West made inflammatory remarks on social media, he dragged down all the companies that partnered with his Yeezy footwear brand.
A savvy business owner would have thought of mitigation plans beforehand, though.
“There are risks in every decision any business makes. If you don’t take a risk, then you risk not taking it to the next level,” Alia points out.
Aisha agrees, saying that it is difficult to predict the future.
“In the event of something untoward, we will deal with it honestly and transparently to the best of our ability. As one of our team’s mottos goes: Run towards the problem, not away from it.”
Kimis believes that trust and integrity is key.
“For all the social enterprises, NGOs and impact organisations under the Earth Heir marketplace umbrella, we ask that they answer a detailed vendor registration form,” she reveals.
Choosing the right partners, of whom uphold the same values as yours, is important too.
“Currently, we are starting off with certified enterprises and organisations with clear commitments to social impact,” Kimis says.
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Aisha adds that her brand takes partnerships seriously. The Dia Guild co-founders try to ensure that the collaboration is mutually beneficial and enriching.
“We like to assume best intentions and hope for the best outcome,” she says.
Then, there are those who still keep a positive mindset – which can help serve as a reminder that, ultimately, collaborations can achieve good things.
The local fashion industry can be thought of as one big family too, and Malaysian brands should look out for each other.
“Even after being in the business for 10 years, I am still in awe of the ‘new’. Seeing new brands and fashion businesses taking the leap to launch new collections really makes my heart glow for our fashion and retail scene,” Alia concludes.
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