How fashion in Malaysia is embracing the idea of conscious consumption


Unplug stocks small, slow fashion labels that produce in small workshops all over Malaysia. Photo: S.S KANESAN/The Star.

For a few years now, the local slow fashion scene is gaining traction among consumers looking to holistically expand their life philosophy.

From ensuring fair wages and working conditions to implementing manufacturing practices that respect the Earth, more people are taking a stand against fast fashion and its adverse environmental and social impacts.

Medical officer Dr Hana Azhari has been supporting slow fashion since 2017, after an episode of home decluttering made her come face-to-face with the amount of items – mostly clothes – she has accumulated over the years.

“I decided to pursue a more minimalist approach to life, including being more conscious with my purchasing, and my interest in slow fashion was part of this shift in my purchasing habits – thinking about the impact of items on the environment, on people, on societies and on myself,”

Founder and creative of director of Snackfood Adeline Chong says that it’s evident that lifestyles are moving at a faster pace, and so is climate change.

“Both social and environmental pressures have made consumers rethink what we consume and how we consume ‘material things’, leading to the appreciation of gentler things that are kinder to our lives and to the Earth,” she says.

Dr Hana Azhari says building awareness on consumers will help them understand and appreciate slow fashion brands. Photo: Dr Hana Azhari
Dr Hana Azhari says building awareness on consumers will help them understand and appreciate slow fashion brands. Photo: Dr Hana Azhari

Snackfood stocks small batch products that are locally sourced, hand-made and crafted through well thought-out processes and an imaginative use of recycled materials.

From scarf and jumper to bottle holder and tote bag, Chong says when slow pieces are uniquely designed, the process is enlightening and the presentation is better than fast fashion.

“The overall functional and emotional joy is definitely higher than fast fashion. That said, I think slow purchases are still deem as a ‘treat’ to our conscience, and they take time to become our daily staple.”

Read more: 'Keen environmentalists, but not fools': Business first, for one beauty brand

Philosophy, not fad

Sisters Najmia, 35, and Atiyya Zulkarnain, 32, set up Unplug to sell small, local labels most people don’t know about.

Najmia says for small labels, production is slow.

“Everything is hand-made using artisan labour. Products are crafted in small workshops and these brands don’t get massive funding,”

The Covid-19 pandemic, she explains, has greatly shifted this interest towards ecological-friendly fashion.

Najmia Zulkarnain says while it's hard for slow fashion brands to scale up, it's important to support their ethics and philosophy. Photo: S.S KANESAN/The Star.
Najmia Zulkarnain says while it's hard for slow fashion brands to scale up, it's important to support their ethics and philosophy. Photo: S.S KANESAN/The Star.
“People couldn’t do much but there was so much information to be digested about the Earth, fashion’s impact on the planet and how everything is interconnected. When lockdowns ended, consumers have started to approach consumption more consciously, ready to stand up for something instead of carelessly buying new things,”

Najmia says without heavy marketing dollars, slow fashion will always be at the periphery, but it offers a conscientious option in an industry that’s all about selling more.

“For my sister and I, this is about helping small and special family businesses that would somehow not have thrived in this industry,” she says.

She says some companies are willing to collaborate with slow fashion brands, because sustainability efforts are good on paper, but “it’s still on the surface and there’s still a lot of one-off marketing,”

“Looking at a fashion business from ethical and sustainability angles from start to finish is hard and expensive, and not many companies are willing to commit to that,” Najmia says.

Different kind of influence

Hana says since the Malaysian fashion scene is spearheaded by local influencers, having them advocate slow fashion and conscious consumerism would impact the purchasing habits of the masses.

“Slow fashion is always going to be more expensive, harder to find and a lot of the time ‘less fashionable’. But the more people understand the impact of fast fashion on the environment, the supply chain and the belief in their power as consumers, the more they will be moved to support slow fashion,” Hana says.

Najmia says it’s hard for slow fashion to scale up because when companies produce more, corners are cut and workers will inevitably be shortchanged.

“We’re happy to give these brands a chance for them to be in a location where their philosophy and ethics are appreciated,” she says.

Chong says she will get to know the makers, their stories and the processes before Snackfood starts on a partnership.

“Sometimes, sourcing and negotiation can take years, sometimes it’s a quick snap of a finger - depending on the consensus of both parties. Sellers also want to be assured that their goods are sold in a respectful, meaningful way,” she says.

Read more: In Malaysia, homegrown beauty brands are working harder to be sustainable

Starts from awareness

Dr Hana says she buys from Muni, known for its clothes and cotton bags using plant dyes. “I’ve also bought from Dona Plant Base and Ozero, preloved and vintage items from local sources,” she says.

Adeline Chong says social and environmental pressures have made consumers rethink what we consume and how we consume things. Photo: Adeline Chong
Adeline Chong says social and environmental pressures have made consumers rethink what we consume and how we consume things. Photo: Adeline Chong
Other notable slow local fashion labels include Bungkus and Nysakapas.

The people behind Bungkus collect single-use plastic waste in the Klang Valley and turn them into toiletry and tote bags customers can re-use, made in small batches by the B40 community.

Nysakapas, meanwhile, is based in Kampung Serada, Kuala Terengganu and helmed by Haniza Hisham who is determined to revive and preserve traditional block batik.

Chong says her customers are diverse. “I think it’s the mindset and conscience that unite slow fashion supporters, regardless of age and economic background. Some will appreciate, and some can afford to buy,”

Dr Hana adds that making the shift starts with awareness. “There are ways to support slow fashion without spending too much money and this includes taking better care of clothes, mending, repairing and altering them and purchasing preloved items.”

She suggests that slow fashion brands engage with popular platforms, influencers and advocates to educate people on the negative impact of fast fashion.

“Things that made a big and lasting impact to me were documentaries such as The True Cost. Perhaps these brands can collaborate to have events focusing on slow and sustainable fashion with demonstrations, film screening and panel discussions,”

“This way, it can reach more people and consumers will better understand why they need to be more conscious in how they shop,” she adds.

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