Dissecting the new normal in fashion: 'Stronger, smarter, more innovative'


Like the rest of the world, Malaysia has adapted. Our local designers have survived the pandemic – either through sheer determination or by being resourceful, and they have learnt from it too. Photo: Filepic

Fashion is always fluid. Trends change in a blink of an eye. Yet, last year was very much an unprecedented period for the industry. The changes witnessed could have never been expected.

A little over a year after the first MCO was implemented in Malaysia (March 18, 2020), a fair number of us still work at home. Not forgetting that a face mask is now a more important accessory compared to say, a bag or even jewellery.

Like the rest of the world, Malaysia has adapted. Our local designers have survived the pandemic – either through sheer determination or by being resourceful, and they have learnt from it too.

Melinda Looi, who is also president of the Malaysian Official Designers' Association (Moda), says it goes to show that the fashion industry is a resilient business.

Everyone needs to adapt. Even Looi, with more than 20 years of experience, has to try new things. She is currently attempting to launch a "self-sanitising" travelwear collection via crowdsourcing.

"Yes, times may be harsh but creatives will always prevail," she notes. "Working outside of the box is what designers do best. Who knows? They may have found a new passion."

Indeed, a lot of them have succesfully expanded their collections to include items more relevant to today's lifestyle. It is no longer just about dressy clothes.

From yoga bags to pyjamas, designers are offering their own chic take on a myriad of things. The past year also saw brands clamouring to release beautiful face masks.

Read more: The rundown on fashion weeks and how they're coping with going digital

Aside from the everyday shoppers, hardcore fashionistas had to come to terms with living in a different world as well. It is no longer about being seen in the scene.

Fashion weeks were probably the industry's biggest victims. Having to go online, they lost their apparent lustre. It did not spell the end of runway shows though. They just evolved into something different.

Fashion presentations are taking the form of short films or web series. From New York to London, Milan and Paris, fashion weeks are now a digital extravaganza. Even our country's Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week succesfully moved online.

"True, the world has changed and we were not prepared for any of these circumstances. However, looking at the bright side, the pandemic has also shown us another way of survival," comments designer Hatta Dolmat.

As founder of the Kuala Lumpur Young Designers Association, you can safely say that he has a fair share of experience navigating the industry.

"My previous and latest press announcement during MCO 2.0 was held as part of the 'new norm'. My upcoming fashion show will also follow suit in a digital format," Hatta adds.

All grown up

Probably one of the biggest positives of the pandemic is how it forced fashion to come to terms with its less-than-healthy aspects.

When lockdowns came into place and clothes in stores started piling up, designers questioned the industry's wastefulness. Churning out new designs season after season in adherence to a set fashion calendar became a ludicrous notion.

Suddenly, sustainability roared into everyone's consciousness. Brands quickly complied with the demand for "green" fashion.

"Many of the designers have shifted their market to slow fashion, paced by introducing a pre-order term instead of releasing thousands of ready stock items. This is one small step towards sustainability," Hatta points out.

"I hope that our fashion industry players will not see this sustainability effort as temporary. They must educate themselves and educate the younger generation of designers on how important slow fashion is."

Hatta launched a collection of clothes made out of recycled plastic bottles last year. This year, he spearheaded an initiative to combat littering and usage of plastic bottles that would otherwise endanger marine life.

Read more: Even in Malaysia, fashion goes 'green': why is sustainability so trendy now?

The pandemic also gave a chance for fashion to be more socially conscious. At the peak of it, designers, fashion houses and brands from countries all over the world pitched in to help out those affected.

In Malaysia, Moda led an initiative to produce personal protection equipment (PPE) for frontliners. Smaller groups of local designers and brands lent a helping hand by collecting funds for charity, as well.

It marked a new era of a more responsible fashion industry.

Conscious consumption became a thing. Trends like upcycling, where designers transform garment waste and unused items into clothes, became hugely popular.

Surviving on a capsule wardrobe of limited fashion items turned out to be a necessity, as boutiques shuttered and people could not shop the traditional way. Surprisingly, second-hand clothes rose to prominence too. Swapping or buying pre-loved items is no longer frowned upon in fashion.

That said, let us all hope that the lessons won't end up for nothing as lockdowns ease.

"Going forward, I hope designers took their time during lockdown to re-think their business direction. When things are back to a (new) normal, we can come back stronger, smarter, more innovative," Looi says.

To be fair, this is not the first time fashion has survived a big change. It also has to be said that the industry's very foundation is built on the concept of novelty.

Why else would shoppers flock to stores everytime a new collection is unveiled?

Looi concludes: "From Louis Vuitton gaining popularity among adventurers during the hype of travelling periods in the early 20th century to Christian Dior's new look post-WW2 in 1947, designers have always been at the forefront of creating something 'new'."

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