Think of the cheongsam (also known as qipao) and Wong Kar-Wai’s romantic masterpiece In The Mood For Love would probably come to mind. It brought about a revival of the traditional attire among millennials – at least, to some degree.
The year 2000 film features a bevy of gorgeous cheongsams, worn by lead actress Maggie Cheung. They may be just costumes (totalling more than 20 different pieces), but each one helped in making the scenes stand out visually.
In the real world, this beautiful dress remains a choice for women. If not worn every day, it makes an appearance for special occasions. Designers regularly return to it too, cementing its importance in the style industry.
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Wong himself said his film was “like a fashion show” in a 2001 IndieWire interview. As the director, he intentionally used the eye-catching designs to set the mood and subtly evoke emotion.
Such is the power of the cheongsam. Despite its minimalist silhouette, it is able to capture attention with the greatest effect. Who says you have to go big or go home? Sometimes, a quieter, more demure beauty can shine just as brightly.
Even international fashion labels have included cheongsams in their collections. Dolce & Gabbana showed off its version for Spring/Summer 2016. Gucci and Blumarine did the same for Spring/Summer 2018.
According to Joseph (speaking to the media after his runway presentation last February), she emigrated from China in the 1940s. She had sent him a large suitcase of handmade clothes from her youth in her homeland the year before his show.
Old cut, new fit
While we celebrate the way the cheongsam has transcended culture and time periods, there is often a fine line to tread. Should designers go all out in modernising it? What constitutes cultural appropriation – versus appreciation?
Malaysian designer Brian Khoo does not see a problem at all with Western fashion houses embracing the design. He says it is nothing more than a celebration of diversity and inclusivity.
“I’m proud that our tradition, heritage and culture are being portrayed and seen on the international stage," he adds, pointing to the Altuzarra case and how it can help keep the young generation interested.
Khoo notes that with modern ones, it should not be a problem for people to don the cheongsam more often. His designs borrow from traditional elements, but are interpreted more youthfully – as separates, for example.
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Melinda Looi believes that the fashion world at large is slowly shifting its focus from West to East. As such, international brands are changing their design directions towards a more oriental look.
“The cheongsam has become a trend again," she claims. “It is an outfit or look that will not go wrong in any occasion. Just like any other traditional wear, for instance the saree, baju kurung and kebaya – or even the Japanese kimono.”
So much so, she styles her latest designs very differently. Models are seen with sheer overskirts, top hats and dramatic masks – marrying classic fashion with theatrical chutzpah.
Beautiful memories
Some others have a more sentimental connection to the cheongsam. It will always represent a time in life or a special memory. In that way, what they design tells a colourful story.
Keith Kee remembers how he watches Hong Kong beauty pageants with his father when young. It has influenced him to appreciate the beauty and grandeur of cheongsams, which were worn by the contestants.
“During my fashion design course, I designed a cheongsam for my mother. She looked so elegant and beautiful in my creation. She too inspired me to see what the beauty of the cheongsam is all about."
Another designer, Izrin Ismail (of the Innai Red label), remembers wearing the cheongsam when she was in primary school for a performance. She still recalls it vividly: a red satin jacquard design with cherry blossom motifs and side slits, paired with a panty hose.
To her, cheongsams are not confined to one culture anymore. She views the design as “universal”, which makes so much possible for it to be modernised and adapted internationally.
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“My take on the modern cheongsam is by giving it a fresh twist. For example, structured puff sleeves that are currently ‘in’, mix of fabrications or having cut-outs on the dresses," Izrin explains.
“But I will always retain the mandarin collar and ornamental Chinese buttons. That’s the first thing that comes to mind when I think of cheongsams – the high collar and beautiful buttons."
Kee is not so much of a purist when it comes to details of his creations. He loves to see new silhouettes and fresh detailing. He believes in pushing the boundaries when it comes to reinterpreting this unique dress.
“I think cheongsams can be designed in many versatile ways. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a one-piece dress. When there are all kinds of unique cheongsams available, I feel that more people would wear the dress."
Stylish evolution
Carven Ong says there is more than meets the eye when it comes to the details. A traditional and modern cheongsam may look the same, but there are enough differences that can set them apart.
The ones commonly seen in the market now use thinner and lighter fabrics, while classic designs utilise brocades with embroideries. As expected, modern cheongsams show a lot more skin too.
“I see chiffon being used now. And instead of buttons running down from the collar to the side, zips are often used instead. It has become a lot about convenience than anything else," Ong explains.
The designer adds that he is seeing hybrids of the cheongsam and evening gowns. Some people are even wearing it with shorts. This could be a matter of the quintessential design evolving to fit a modern lifestyle.
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“Just like the LBD (little black dress), few dresses have been as iconic in history as the cheongsam and will always be an investment, a must-have piece in a Chinese woman’s wardrobe," says Khoon Hooi.
He does not think it has (or will) go out of style. According to him, putting on a well-fitted cheongsam can immediately make the wearer become aware of its timeless beauty and elegance.
There are a few tips and tricks to picking out a right one. So, don’t worry too much. Khoon Hooi explains that while the traditional cut is usually a slim, body-hugging fit with cap sleeves, many other options now exist.
“If you are pear-shaped, choose a flattering A-line cut. If you are petite, you can consider a knee-length dress to elongate your legs. Those who are more athletic should pick out a dress with a cinched waistline, which will help soften your silhouette," he concludes.
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