New fashion documentary profiles Martin Margiela, the designer 'without a face'

Martin Margiela, who is known for his brilliantly eccentric design ethos, was always against publicly showing face. He also has fondness for covering his models' faces in veils, opaque stocking-masks or elaborate hairstyles. Photo: Dogwoof

An industry as overtly image-based as fashion design is always going to produce instantly recognisable stars. But as proven by Reiner Holzemer's intelligent, enjoyable if uncritical Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, in those cases, the figure of the designer can eclipse the design.

Think of Vivienne Westwood, and we think of her Elizabeth-I-safety-pinned-to-Sid-Vicious vibe; of Tom Ford and it's how his immaculate stubble often outguns his doubtless terrifyingly suave suit.