In most skincare products aqua or water is an ingredient that sits at the top of its list, signifying a high content of this item.
According to French skincare brand Institut Esthederm, water represents 70% of a cosmetic formula. Is there a difference in the type of water used? A lot, according to Natalia Kovylkina, the international trainer for Institut Esthederm.
“When it comes to ageing, you can’t stop it, but we can manage your ageing.
“The type of water used in a skincare product is crucial and Institut Esthederm skincare products are made to prolong the youth of our skin cells,” says Kovylkina at a presentation of the brand in Kuala Lumpur.
Institut Esthederm, a salon professional brand, has been available in Malaysia but is now distributed by Luxasia Malaysia Sdn Bhd – which includes Guerlain, La Prairie, Decleor, Anna Sui, Benefit, Make Up For Ever, Burberry and Elizabeth Arden among its portfolio.
The brand’s newest line is the Institut Esthederm Esthe White System and the products available locally comprises the Brightening Youth Cleansing Foam, Brightening Youth Anti-Dark Spots Serum, Brightening Youth Moisturizing Day Care, Brightening Youth Regenerating Night Care, Targeted Dark Spots Concentrate and Brightening Youth Eye Care.
Kovylkina says Institut Esthederm skincare is unique as it is supported by the brand’s cellular water. “Our approach in anti-ageing skincare is by using cellular water, age management, sunlight and a professional method,” she explains.
“A lot of brands talk about the negative effects from the sun but nothing about the positive effects, which is aiding in vitamin D production and hormonal stimulation. Our suncare products block negative sunlight and allow the positive through,” Kovylkina explains.
“Since water constitutes the highest concentration in a skincare, the type used is important. In the market there is thermal, demineralised and distilled water, and Institut Esthederm uses its own cellular water.”
According to the study of skin cell viability by INSERM (French National Institute of Health and Medical Research) – a public scientific and technological institute – mineralised water is too rich in minerals and atrophies the cells, demineralised water is devoid of minerals and breaks up cells, while cellular water has the ideal concentration of mineral salts and protects the survival of cells.
“In 1999 we created the brand’s cellular water, which is patented, with an optimum balance of pH which allows our skin’s cells to live better for longer,” says Kovylkina.
“Inspired by the water of the skin, our cellular water is the essential ingredient in all our formulas. It is a recomposition of interstitial body fluid comprising water, ATP (adenosine triphosphate), carnosine, mineral salts.”
ATP is the main energy source for cellular functions while carnosine reduces oxidative damage and prevents yellowing of the complexion.
“Cellular water is the first vector of youth efficiency, it optimises the cells’ energetic environment and accelerates treatment efficiency,” she says. The Esthe White skincare taps on its key ingredient marine exopolysaccharide and Hypopigmentaline technology.
“For the new Esthe White skincare range, we utilise the Time Control Patent System which gives you younger skin longer, prevents chronological ageing and slows down biological ageing by maintaining the energy efficiency of young cells.”
According to Kovylkina, the Esthe White skincare, which was clinically tested in Korea, was created based on a woman’s need for whitening efficiency in tackling dark spots, uneven complexion and lack of brightness.
“Women also wanted hydration and radiance, good sensoriality, suitability for all skin types and sensitive skin, and visible long lasting results – all of which the Esthe White range caters for,” Kovylkina says.
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