Hoyos is one of dozens of chefs connected to WCK, the nonprofit group that provides meals at global hotspots where people face trauma. Photos: Eva Marie Uzcategui/AFP
Karla Hoyos is a chef ready to hop on a plane at a moment's notice. Whenever she gets the call, she leaves her taco business in Miami, Florida, the United States to go anywhere in the world to help feed victims of natural disasters or war.
She is one of dozens of chefs connected to World Central Kitchen (WCK), the nonprofit group founded by renowned chef Jose Andres that provides meals at global hotspots where people face trauma.
Andres, the Spanish-American restaurateur who founded WCK in 2010, mobilises his network quickly after any catastrophe, and they serve up to 100,000 meals a day with the help of local relief groups and markets.
The role of Hoyos is to set up the makeshift kitchens, manage logistics and even offer the recipes used to prepare dishes.
"It doesn't matter if it's a garage, if it's a basement, if it's a warehouse, if you have running water, electric and air vents, I'll build a kitchen," says Hoyos, 35, who is Mexican and was also recently deployed to feed victims in Ukraine affected by the war with Russia.
Hoyos, owner of Tacotomia restaurant, says there is little separation between her humanitarian work and what she does in her business.
"At the end of the day, conflicts are conflicts, and innocent people suffer all the time and we are there to help whoever is hungry."
Vocation to feed
Hoyos speaks passionately about her trade from Tacotomia, the small restaurant she opened four months ago in a gastronomic market in downtown Miami.
For her, there is little separation between her humanitarian work and what she does in her business. It's all part of the same vocation, born at age 12 when she baked her first tray of cookies.
"I want to put as much detail, as much love, in both things. It doesn't matter if it's a Michelin star restaurant or you're eating a taco or you're going to receive a free plate of rice because you haven't eaten in days."
Inspired by her grandmother and rejecting her father's wishes for her to become a lawyer, she studied at a culinary school in Mexico before travelling to Spain – where she spent a year at a restaurant awarded three Michelin stars – and on to Italy.
Upon her return, she settled in Indianapolis and opened a Mexican restaurant with her aunt. There she began to help others, in an association supporting immigrants.
Hoyos, owner of Tacotomia, holds a dish called 'Machete'.
Her collaboration with WCK began in 2017, when Hurricane Maria devastated Puerto Rico. The catering company she worked for at the time, Bon Appetit, decided to send chefs to the Caribbean island to help Andres feed the population.
Hoyos immediately agreed to go despite widespread power outages and scarce potable water. She initially sized up Andres as a "grumpy man", but her admiration for the Spanish chef grew, and she worked at his side for three months, eventually hiring on at his Miami restaurant.
Six years later, Hoyos sometimes wonders why she travels to dangerous places like Ukraine, but her vocation to help always prevails.
The hardest part, she says, is returning to the normalcy of home.
"When you are trying to help people, and (you have to) leave, it's very hard to accept that you have to go home, to your AC, to your fridge full of food, to your job, to your comfort. And there's a lot of guilt in there." – AFP
