For hundreds of years, we have been making dashi the wrong way, says Chef Yoshihiro Murata of the three Michelin-starred Kikunoi restaurant in Kyoto. Photo: The Star/Faihan Ghani
He is one of Japan’s most respected chefs today and runs three highly rated restaurants: Kikunoi, a 100-seater fine dining kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto which has three Michelin stars; kappo-style Roan Kikunoi, also in Kyoto, a 50-seater, and Akasaka Kikunoi, a 50-seater tea house-style Kyoto cuisine restaurant in Tokyo.
But Yoshihiro Murata had not always wanted to be a Japanese chef. His father and grandfather were both kaiseki chefs but he hated the life and wished to run away from his fate.
