A short visit to the bustling South Indian city was extra memorable with a bar hop to three of its highest-rated bars. — Photos: Michael Cheang/The Star
With five bars on the most recent Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, including one in the Top 10, India’s cocktail scene has been growing exponentially.
Of the five, three are in the South Indian city of Bengaluru (or Bangalore), making it one of the top must-visit Indian cities for cocktail lovers.
During a recent trip to Bengaluru, I managed to check out all three bars on the list, and came away impressed not only with the quality of their cocktails, but also the high standards of hospitality there.
A secret “Kyoto-styled” speakeasy in an Indian palace which you can only access through a hotel kitchen and a service lift? It’s safe to say ZLB23 is not your average hotel bar.
It’s not even very secret any more, to be honest, having been crowned Best Bar in India in 2024, and the retaining its place on the list this year at No.31.
It is located within the luxurious five-star The Leela Palace Bengaluru hotel – even its name is shrouded in mystery. ZLB stands for “Zia’s Lounge Bar” – Zia being the bar’s fictional host whom you have to text to gain entry to the bar, while 23 is a number that the bar is closely associated with (it was founded in 2023, and the Leela Palace is located on 23 Old Airport Road).
KL bar Three X Co recently held a guest shift at ZLB23.
During my visit, ZLB23 happened to be hosting a guest shift by one of Malaysia’s top bars, Three X Co, which recently made a return to the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list at an all-time high of No.15.
Needless to say, this also meant that ZLB23 was bustling by the time I arrived. The guest shift was in full swing, and Malaysian bartenders Amanda Wan and Jo Wong furiously churnws out Three X Co’s iconic drinks.
Happily, I still managed to try a few drinks from ZLB23’s menu. Led by bar manager Suchismita Roy and head mixologist Rajib Mukhergee, the cocktail menu is divided into three main categories, Prohibition-Era Cocktails, Japanese-Inspired Cocktails, and Native Cocktails.
Fire And Water is a lovely interpretation of a dirty martini.
I decided to focus more on the Native Cocktails section, as these were drinks that used ingredients that were, well, native to India, specifically Bengaluru.
Three of the drinks really stood out for me. The Fire & Water is a stunning stunning savory vesper twist with two gins, sake, Lillet Blanc, local chili pickle and edamame.
Shoyu Ramen was like a bowl of Shiro ramen in a glass, lots of umami, with tequila adding herbaceous notes.
If you’re looking for something refreshing, try the Coco Irish Fizz. Whiskey and Coconut water go well together, but adding a hint of ginger and lime leaf in it was genius.
Guava is one of India’s most common fruits, and in the Affable cocktail, it went, well, affably with both tequila and Mezcal as its base.
ZLB23's Shoyu Ramen was like a bowl of Shiro ramen in a glass.
The pineapple-forward Annanas uses a double base of rum and vanilla liqueur, resulting in an almost Pina colada-like drink but without the creaminess, and almond giving it a distinct nutty tinge.
Last but not least, I tried the One In A Melon, which doesn’t come in a melon, but has a unique combination of cheese and mezcal, made refreshing by watermelon.
I first heard of Soka when the bar’s co-founder Avinash Kapoli and bartender Shreya Shetty did a guest shift at Coley in Kuala Lumpur a few months ago, and was quite impressed with the uniquely Indian flavours in their drinks.
Ranked No.28 on the latest Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, the bar is named after its co-founders – chef Sombir Choudhary (So) and Kapoli (Ka) – and the space brings to mind a cosy Japanese izakaya, anchored by the open bar/kitchen at the end.
Soka was the highest-ranked bar from Bengaluru in the latest Asia's 50 Best Bars list.
The first thing you see as you enter the bar is a massive cocoon-like installation by Goan artist Siddharth Kerkar hanging in the centre, right above the outlet’s largest table.
It’s an impressive piece that commands attention, and to some extent, trepidation, as the bar staff are constantly hitting it to make it sway somewhat violently (which can be quite disconcerting if you are seated below it, though Shreya assured us that it will not fall).
The rhythmic swaying of the art piece contributes to an overall vibe of controlled chaos here – the combined nature of the bar and kitchen brings about a constant blur of activity, while on the floor, the staff are always attentive, always there, and always ready to fill up your glass of water.
Soka Represent
I managed to try four drinks from here.
The Soka Represent is a fun, unfancy tipple made with grapefruit, vodka, Campari, and vegan foam that is worthy of bearing the bar’s name, capturing its fun vibe in a glass.
Meaningful Nonsense sounds simple – vodka, amaro, lemon and matcha oil, but somehow makes it all gel wonderfully together.
Meaningful Nonsense
The complex Mysore High harnesses the sweet tropical notes of Yelekki bananas and blends it with rum, coffee liqueur, and bitters.
We also got an off-menu drink that night – the Bil Bul Sour, a Tequila sour with Jalapeño and chilli tincture with equal amounts of heat and herbaceousness.
The food at Soka is also equally impressive, which is no surprise seeing as it is co-founded by chef Sombir Choudhary of the Goa restaurant Jamming Goat.
A bar called Spirit Forward? There was no way I was going to miss going there during my trip.
Named No.37 on the most recent Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, the bar was already buzzing with activity when we arrived there at about 7pm.
Bar Spirit Forward came in at No.37 on the latest Asia's 50 Best Bars list.
The space can fit about 60 people, and is anchored by a really lovely long bar with comfy armchairs, and a microphone hanging in the middle that they use to announce, well, whatever they want to announce.
The drinks? I went straight for the most spirit-forward one I could find – the 3-Gin Vesper, made with Roku Gin, Tanqueray 10, Greater Than gins, plus vodka, sake, Lillet Blanc and garnished with Gochujang + Cream Cheese Olives.
Can you get more ‘spirit-forward’ than Bar Spirit Forward’s 3-Gin Vesper?
Needless to say, it did not disappoint. The three gins may seem excessive, but I could make out the distinct notes of each one: the softer notes of Roku, the grapefruit from the Tanqueray 10, and the juniper from the Greater Than London Dry gin.
MILF and Cookies was another interesting one, made with Irish whiskey, red apple, falernum and a cookie milk punch.
It wasn’t quite as milk-and-cookies-heavy as you might expect, but the apple and falernum actually gave it a lovely spiced, fruity apple pie-like note.
MILF And Cookies
I also got to try the Red Riding Highball, made with London dry gin, strawberry jam, red apple, vermouth, rice water and ice cream soda (which gave the drink a somewhat nostalgic feel).
A highball in a “spirit-forward” bar? Well, apparently, the “spirit” in the name doesn’t just refer to the alcohol percentage, but also the spirit of flavours, the guests, the techniques and everything else a bar thrives on. And it’s safe to say the bar achieves that in every way.
Michael Cheang was suitably impressed by not just the flavours of the drinks, but also the hospitality at the bars in India he visited. Follow him on Instagram (@mytipsyturvy) and Facebook (fb.com/mytipsyturvy).
