When cheese becomes controversial


The limited-edition cheese packaging from a German company that became the focus of controversy, with far-right groups labelling it 'woke' for not reflecting their vision of society. — DMK Group/dpa

"The absurdity of the debate can hardly be surpassed."

That was the response from a German-based company, the DMK Group, that recently found itself at the centre of a heated public debate - not over faulty products, but over the design of a limited-edition package for its Milram cheese brand, which was set to be removed from stores.

The special edition replaced traditional pastoral imagery with comic-style illustrations depicting people of diverse skin tones - a reflection of contemporary society.

What seemed like a simple design choice quickly became a flashpoint online.

Some far-right groups criticised the packaging as "woke", claiming it did not reflect society as they imagined it.

Josef Holnburger, a researcher who studies online radicalisation and conspiracy narratives, described the reaction as a classic "shitstorm".

From awareness to controversy

At the heart of the debate is a term that often sparks heated discussions: "woke". According to Holnburger, it has become a widely used political flashpoint.The term, also used as "wokeness", originated in the early 20th century with a positive meaning. Within African American culture and the civil rights movement of the 1960s, being "woke" referred to awareness of social injustice.

It resurfaced during the Black Lives Matter movement in the 2010s, emphasising vigilance against discrimination and inequality.

Over time, the term was co-opted by right-wing commentators as a catch-all critique for what they perceive as excessive progressive politics.

"Woke became a general code for everything some consider wrong in society," says political scientist Floris Biskamp, who studies the limits of political discourse.

"Almost everyone who uses the term (these days) agrees that it describes something bad," Biskamp adds. It can refer to perceived overreach in anti-racism, language sensitivity or identity politics - and at times even to harmless initiatives like colourful product packaging.The label woke is being applied to both mainstream progressive ideas and some "fringe craziness", Biskamp notes.

Not a new debate

Controversy over too much diversity in advertising is hardly new. Companies have often used inclusive imagery to appeal to broader audiences or to reflect modern society.

Campaigns highlighting racial, cultural or gender diversity occasionally spark backlash, particularly from groups seeking to preserve a narrow definition of "normal".

Last year, the German national soccer team's pink and purple jersey sparked its own controversy. Some saw the colours as a challenge to traditional gender norms in a male-dominated sport.

In the end, however, fans embraced the bold look, and the jersey became a top seller.

The rise of social media has amplified these debates, allowing a small but vocal group to create disproportionate outrage.

Bots, fake accounts and coordinated campaigns can make a relatively minor issue appear like a widespread societal controversy, experts say.

Such debates are often fuelled by far-right actors, who aim to generate controversy to maintain relevance and visibility.

Those quick to accuse the cheese packaging of "anti-white propaganda", for example, thrive on drawing attention. "This is their political and economic lifeblood," says political scientist Biskamp.

The company says that backlash against its limited-edition packaging was largely concentrated on the social media platform X.

Extreme-right groups seek to render invisible anything that does not conform to their narrow vision of society, according to Holnburger.

"Beyond heterosexuality and whiteness, their goal is to suppress all other forms of social expression," he explains, including queer identities and non-white communities.

A slice of toast with cheese is on a plate. — SEBASTIAN GOLLNOW/dpaA slice of toast with cheese is on a plate. — SEBASTIAN GOLLNOW/dpa

Online noise

So how should companies respond when a product sparks outrage? Experts suggest staying the course and continuing to do what is right: reflect society in all its diversity.

"A company can and must put up with it, because a particularly active and loud group on the Internet is stirring up a mood against minorities," says Holnburger.

"The debate over what is considered 'woke' often says more about the accusers than the product itself," adds Biskamp.

The cheese manufacturer's statement echoes this approach: "What is labelled as 'woke' in some circles is simply a reflection of our society."

Experts Biskamp and Holnburger note that the response of mainstream political actors can influence how much attention such debates receive.

Do conservatives and liberals amplify far-right outrage or do they treat it with indifference? Sometimes, the wisest answer is simply to ignore it.

Ultimately, the controversy highlights broader cultural tensions: how societies negotiate representation, diversity and inclusion in everyday life — and how a simple product design can ignite complex discussions about identity, politics and social change.

Ultimately, the real question is how much ordinary consumers are affected. In this case, the product appears unaffected by the controversy, with stable sales despite the "digital noise". – dpa

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food , lifestyle food , cheese , controversy , labelling

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