The writer (fifth from left) with the Sandakan Heritage Trail committee and Walter Kenson, the Sandakan Municipal Council (MPS) president (sixth from left), during the launching of the first Historical Tree Trail in Malaysia, recognised by the Malaysia Book of Records, on June 28, 2025. — Photos: LAI KING HANG
22 years ago, I took up an assignment that challenges my heart and soul deeply.
For the first time in my adult life I have more questions than answers about the origin of Sandakan, the place I call home.
Sandakan is situated at the east coast of Sabah and formerly it was the pre-war capital of British North Borneo.
When I was asked to organise a Sandakan Heritage Trail, it struck me that I barely knew the history of my own hometown.
Nevertheless together with like-minded friends, we started to explore some known and unknown heritage sites, gathering information, myths and folklores to complete this historical puzzle.
One of the oldest and hidden gems is Sam Sing Kung Temple or Temple of the Three Saints built between 1885 and 1887.
As a non-Chinese educated person, I was lost in translation. The temple is a repository of historical artefacts and plaques obviously in Chinese characters which contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Located at the top front, on the left and right entrance of the temple, are five big Chinese characters written on each side literally meaning "The spirit illuminates the vast land; righteousness brings a hundred blessings".
In general it teaches us that disciplined action inspires goodness to transform lives for all. I found out that the temple was initially a religious centre for the Chinese from Guangdong province, namely the Cantonese, Hakkas, Teo Chews and Hainanese.
It is situated at the heart of old Sandakan, built on a slope facing the shore. Most new migrants from China would land here in front of the temple where they sought the first shelter and rest after their hard journey across the south seas.
According to my family tree book, I am a Hakka and my great grandfather came from Lantau Island near Hong Kong. He arrived as a teenager in search of work and fortune – a familiar story of those who “escaped” in pursuit of a better life more than a century ago.
This is a common situation in Sandakan, many of the Chinese here came from Hong Kong or Southern China in the late 19th century and early 20th century.
Sandakan was an outpost of the British Empire and later became an important trading port in this region.
Modern Sandakan was founded by William B Pryer on June 21, 1879. Sandakan is popularly known as "Little Hong Kong" as we share similar dialects, culture and food especially.
Standing in front of the temple, I look out at a padang. Once a seafront, this area was transformed by land reclamation in the early 20th century, shifting Sandakan’s coastline to where the town now lies.
I can almost imagine my ancestor coming to rest in this temple and how over the decades my family has survived the early days and faced hardship during WW2.
Despite the uncertainty, it is here we set our goals for the next generation and it is here we hope to progress together with other residents.
It is also here we raised our hope for the future too.I am considered the fourth generation living in Sandakan.
The Sam Sing Kung Temple or Temple of the Three Saints, built between 1885 and 1887, contains a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Stories of old Sandakan still echo in many corners and corridors. Fishing villages of the olden days are almost gone now but the spirit of survival is still strong, waiting for more stories to be created.
Heritage helps us understand ourselves and build connections when we discover qualities in a place or its story that we relate to.
Sandakan Heritage Trail, a community volunteer programme, was established in 2003 and was launched by Datuk Adeline Leong, president of Sandakan Municipal Council MPS (2000 to 2004).
This initiative stands as a testament to determination, grit, and wit – a call to the younger generation to learn our own history and appreciate the sacrifices of our forefathers who built a better place for all.
Personally, it has become a vocation and a journey of self discovery as I continue to play my role to uncover more history of Sandakan.
"If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten." – Rudyard Kipling.
Lai King Hang is the founder and chairman of Sandakan Heritage Trail.
