In Colonial, where past meets present


The buttery Baked Jumbo Prawn.

Enjoy Anglo-Chinese fare at colonial-themed restaurant.

THE decor of the In Colonial restaurant is reminiscent of the colonial era.

Although the ambience reflects a bygone period, the restaurant offers up a decidedly contemporary take on Anglo-Chinese cuisine.

Offering diners a selection of appetisers and soups before the main courses, the order in which the dishes are served speaks of the restaurant’s Western influence.

The Swiss Spring Rolls are a decadent appetiser, filled with rich Swiss Cheese and coated in a crispy skin.
The Swiss Spring Rolls are a decadent appetiser, filled with rich Swiss Cheese and coated in a crispy skin.

This culinary marriage of East and West is the creation of head chef Kam Tsang Ming.

“I am from Hong Kong but I worked in Switzerland for 20 years, so the dishes that I come up with are inspired by Cantonese cuisine and Western ingredients,” he said.

A truly delectable example of this is the appetiser Swiss Spring Rolls (RM16), where crisp spring rolls are filled with melted Swiss cheese.

This unique and tasty starter was my personal favourite.

A signature soup here is the Caviar Seafood Chowder (RM22), a concoction that tastes like shark’s fin soup but minus the expensive ingredient.

It is a thick Chinese-style broth with shrimp, squid, crabmeat and Japanese tofu, topped with caviar.

The In Colonial Baked Jumbo Prawn (RM82), which I had cooked with butter, is not to be missed.

The delicate texture of the prawn is infused with butter and an aromatic broth, such that it melts in the mouth and leaves a savoury aftertaste.

The Black Pepper Rib Eye Cubes are succulent and tender.
The Black Pepper Rib Eye Cubes are succulent and tender.

For the more carnivorous individual, the In Colonial Black Pepper Rib Eye Cubes (RM55 for Australian rib eye, RM138 for Australian Wagyu) is a worthy classic.

Stir-fried in black pepper, its piquant flavour combined with beef chunks was like eating a Chinese steak.

The dish of Claypot Oysters (RM48) is another revelation.

Coated in a light, soft batter, theoysters are stir-fried with ginger, onions and a dash of soy sauce.

“This is an old Cantonese style of cooking oysters that originated in the 1960s and 1970s,” Kam said, adding that it was a taste quite unfamiliar to the Malaysian palate.

The Portuguese Steamed Cod Fish (RM68), is steamed with blended fresh chilli paste, which results in a refreshingly spicy and tangy dish.

Dessert is served on a platter, comprising flat white coffee, fruit slices, and fried ice cream.— Photos by CHAN TAK KONG
The trio of desserts comprises flat white coffee, fruit slices and fried ice cream.

The ideal dessert to end your meal with, is the In Colonial Dessert Trio (RM22), which has something for even the most discriminating palate.

A teacup of flat white coffee, slices of fruits and fried ice cream are beautifully laid out on a serving platter.

The fried ice cream is the highlight of the trio and perfectly complemented by the coffee, again showcasing the restaurant’s concept of East meeting West.

IN COLONIAL RESTAURANT, Lot G13, The Intermark, 348 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2162 9033). Business hours: 10am to 11pm (Monday to Sunday). Pork-free.

This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.

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