'Bekwoh' cookbook author eats his way through Malaysia's East Coast

Belebat ubi stelo

Singaporean author Bryan Koh remembers distinctly the first Kelantanese meal he had in a restaurant in Kuala Lumpur two years ago.

“It’s alchemy: rice noodles, coconutty fish gravy untouched by spice, a frisson of herbs. The fish and coconut really come through in the white sauce, and I love how the ulam sharpens and enhances it, rather than drowning it.

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