Out of the Central Asian steppe, Kazakhstan's purpose-built capital, Astana, rises like Superman's Fortress of Solitude. Though it's only November, there is already a foot of snow on the ground, and the wind chill is -37°C.
But inside Line Brew restaurant's stone walls, it is perfectly balmy. Built into an old pump house, Line Brew is one of the few buildings in Astana that isn't brand new – it looks like a medieval Czech castle, with its six-storey turrets and flaming hearth on the first floor. And it's here that restaurant director Gulmira Zhakupova explains how horsemeat, Kazakhstan's traditional source of protein, has evolved into the 21st century.