By JULIA DELLA CROCE
We've come a long way since the days when Americans thought Italian cuisine meant spaghetti or ziti in rivers of "marinara" set on red-chequered tablecloths. Even if mistaken notions persist about what genuine Italian cooking really is, we've embraced every new pasta that has come our way (think squid-ink fettuccine or agnolotti al plin), and we've become more sauce savvy, too. Amatriciana and puttanesca are commonplace in restaurant and home kitchens alike, and "carbonara" is a household word from New York to Nebraska. Arrabbiata, cacio e pepe, aglio e olio – you name it, we love them all.