In the culinary world, the Bocuse d’Or is often compared to the Olympics, simply because for some of the top chefs in the world, it is their Olympics.
The biennial international world chef competition has been around since 1987 and is named after legendary French chef Paul Bocuse. The celebrated cook-off features 24 chefs from different countries competing against each other in a battle to do their nations – and themselves – proud.
One very determined competitor at this year’s Bocuse d’Or is 26-year-old Singaporean chef Matthew Leong.
Leong was crowned the champion at the Bocuse d’Or Singapore selection in 2019 and is the youngest Singaporean candidate ever to compete at the Bocuse d’Or finals, which this year will be held on 26 September 2021 in Lyon, France.
“For all these years that Singapore has competed in Bocuse d’Or, the highest achievement our country has ever achieved was a bronze in 1989. I want to make history and be the first and youngest Singaporean chef to win gold at this prestigious culinary competition,” says the ambitious Leong.
Leong’s goals certainly aren’t out of reach, especially when you consider his track record. At 13, he participated in his first culinary competition. By the time he was 21, he had become the chef de partie at Renaa, a two-Michelin starred restaurant in Stavanger, Norway. Now at 26, he is the head chef at A L’aise, a Michelin Plate restaurant in Oslo, Norway.
Leong’s determination and go-getter attitude have clearly been the foundation of his many career successes. And this grit is even more evident in his approach to preparing for the Bocuse d’Or.
“I work full-time as a head chef from Tuesday to Saturday. During my off days on Sunday and Monday, I train for the competition with my team in my own kitchen. Each training session would usually take an average of 10 hours.
“During the training, we do a time trial and prepare the dishes needed to be presented at the competition. We need to ensure that we finish everything within the five-and-half hours given.
“Since the competition date is drawing nearer, I also have to make arrangements for my equipment to be sent over to France that will be used during the day of the competition. I am also preparing all paperwork, logistics and accommodations arrangements for my team and me,” says Leong.
This year’s competition also contains an additional takeaway challenge, built around the new norms arising from the pandemic – a brand-new element that Leong must now prepare for.
“For the ‘plate’ challenge, we are given a ‘takeaway’ task designed to echo the new modes of catering that have emerged during the pandemic. We need to design a takeout menu around three dishes (starter, main course and dessert), and the same seasonal product, tomato.
“All dishes must be presented in a reusable box designed and developed by the candidates from materials of plant origin. With these new rules in place, it has definitely been a challenge – besides having to create dishes with tomatoes as the theme, I also need to work with the design team to create a takeout box that’s sustainable. Since the design of the takeout box is one of the marking criteria, a lot of work needs to go into it,” he says.
Leong says preparing for the competition is not for the faint of heart. He has been training for three years straight, working seven days a week without a single day off. The competition has also been postponed three times due to the pandemic, which means additional months of training, re-strategising and recalibrating.
“If the competition had taken place according to schedule, it would have been over in January earlier this year.
“With this postponement, the team and I have to train for an additional eight months. Hence, you really require mental strength in order to endure such a harsh training schedule and tedious journey in preparation for Bocuse d’Or,” admits Leong.
Although he is confident in his own abilities, Leong confesses that naysayers have been adamant that he lacks the experience to compete in a competition of this calibre.
“I have heard people around me telling me that I am too young and inexperienced to compete in such a prestigious culinary contest. People have their doubts about me because of my young age.
“But while I may be one of the youngest candidates in this year’s competition, I believe that my years of experience in the industry are comparable to other older candidates since I started my career when I was 13,” he says.
Leong will be pitted against competitors from countries like Norway, Sweden, France, Denmark, Japan, Thailand and Russia, among many others (there is no Malaysian team this time around), and says doing well in the competition will boost his career prospects considerably.
“My goal after the competition is to open my own fine-dining restaurant and earn a Michelin star so hopefully by doing well at the competition, this will bring me more recognition, open doors and help me achieve my goal,” says Leong.
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