Goodness of cendol in kuih


WHO does not like cendol – that cold and creamy coconut dessert that we long for on any hot afternoon?

It is also one of the first things that those who observe Ramadan break their fast on, for its shaved ice to quench the thirst and the sweet gula melaka to recharge the energy.

Another hot favourite during Ramadan is kuih talam, with that double layer of pandan and coconut.

What about merging the two popular desserts into one to make kuih talam cendol?

Whisk the batter in a bain-marie to ensure it cooks evenly and does not have any lumps.Whisk the batter in a bain-marie to ensure it cooks evenly and does not have any lumps.

If you have never had this before, you are in for a real treat.

Instead of a green pandan layer at the bottom and white santan layer on top, this kuih talam cendol has a gula melaka bottom layer and white santan layer speckled with strands of cendol.

Starting with the bottom layer, you need to get the best quality gula melaka that you can buy.

I got really good ones from Jonker Street in Melaka and the result was amazing.

The fragrance of the gula melaka really came through, and although there was no additional sugar in this recipe, it was sweet enough.

You will notice that there is an addition of a quarter teaspoon of lye solution or alkali water for the bottom layer. This is air abu soda or kansui, which gives the kuih a bit of springiness. But do be cautious about adding too much because an overdose of lye can give the kuih a soapy flavour.

The top layer, however, does not contain lye solution because traditionally the coconut layer tends to be a bit softer, which gives this layer a more lemak mouthfeel.

More experienced cooks will sometimes cook each batter directly in the pot, stirring continuously to avoid any lumps.

However, I have been taught to cook it in a double-boiler or bain-marie while whisking vigorously.

Add the cendol after the coconut milk batter is cooked. Stir gently to keep the cendol strands from breaking.Add the cendol after the coconut milk batter is cooked. Stir gently to keep the cendol strands from breaking.

I find it easier to control the heat in a double-boiler and whisking as it thickens creates a very smooth texture.

The recommended size of the square or round pan is 25cm (8 inches).

Although the round pan will give you a slightly higher kuih, I prefer using a square pan because it is easier to line it with baking parchment.

Lining the pan means I do not have to oil the pan and I can just lift up the paper to remove the kuih when it is done.

After spreading out the bottom layer of the kuih talam, use a spatula to create some ripples on the surface of the batter before steaming it.

This will give the top layer a bit of grip when poured in later.

If the surface of the bottom layer has smoothed out too much during the steaming, you can scrape it a bit with a fork so that the top layer can grip on to the bottom layer.

I have previously made a mistake of not steaming the bottom layer before adding the top layer and the result was an uncooked kuih that remained gooey in the centre and overcooked on top and at the sides.

Kuih talam is a dessert where each step has a defined purpose, taking shortcuts is not advisable if you want to achieve the artistry of a Nyonya kuih that the Peranakans have taken centuries to refine.

Spread the coconut milk batter over steamed palm sugar layer, and steam for another 15 minutes until firm.Spread the coconut milk batter over steamed palm sugar layer, and steam for another 15 minutes until firm.

Kuih Talam Cendol

Bottom layer

150g palm sugar

350ml water

3 pandan leaves

100ml coconut milk

¼ tsp lye solution

60g rice flour

25g green pea flour

20g cornstarch

Top layer

40g granulated sugar

200ml water

150ml coconut milk

½ tsp salt

30g rice flour

15g green pea flour

20g cornstarch

200g cendol

Chill kuih talam cendol for at least four hours before serving. — Photos: SAMUEL ONG/The StarChill kuih talam cendol for at least four hours before serving. — Photos: SAMUEL ONG/The Star

Method

For the bottom layer, boil palm sugar in water with pandan leaves until the sugar dissolves. Stir coconut milk and lye solution into the syrup, then strain into a mixing bowl.

Sift together rice flour, green pea flour and cornstarch. Make a well in the centre and pour in coconut milk and palm sugar mixture and combine into a smooth batter.

Cook batter in a double-boiler, whisking vigorously until thickened, about five minutes.

Line a 20-cm round or square pan with baking parchment.

Pour into pan and spread into an even layer, but ripple the top to create an uneven surface. Then steam over boiling water for 15 minutes.

For the top layer, sift together salt, rice flour, green pea flour and cornstarch. Make a well in the centre and pour in coconut milk, water and sugar, then combine into a smooth batter.

Cook batter in a double-boiler, whisking vigorously until thickened, about five minutes. Then stir in the cendol gently to make sure the strands do not break.

If the steamed bottom layer has become too smooth, scratch its surface with a fork before pouring over the top layer. Then steam over boiling water for another 15 minutes.

Remove from steamer and allow to cool in the refrigerator for at least four hours before cutting to serve.

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