Meaty dishes for discerning palates


  • Eating Out
  • Friday, 18 Sep 2020

The Signature Salted Beef may appear uncooked but it is meltingly tender, slightly salty and flavourful. It is served with sauerkraut and English mustard. — Photos: LOW LAY PHON/The Star

A GOOD sausage begins with good meat, says butcher and restaurateur Ho Kim Loon.

“Where it was once created to use up the trimmings butchers had no use for, it is now a desired meat by itself.

“This is why what goes into making a sausage is important, ” he said.

Ho certainly knows the subject as he has been making sausages for the past 30 years.

Fans of Mr Ho’s Fine Foods in Bangsar Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur in the 1990s would attest to the quality of his meat and food products.

While it has only been three years since Ho returned to Kuala Lumpur’s dining scene with his restaurant The Butcher’s Table, the business has grown so well that it even has outlets in other locations.

One of the latest outlets is in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. This was where we were treated to some of the restaurant’s signature porky dishes.

 The Grilled Pancetta has been slow-cured and lightly smoked using natural wood chips. The Grilled Pancetta has been slow-cured and lightly smoked using natural wood chips.

There are at least 12 varieties of gourmet sausages, all of which are Ho’s very own recipes.

The sausages are made using 80% lean meat and 20% fat, which he says is the perfect meat-to-fat ratio.

He said they were nitrate- and preservative-free, using natural hog casings and zero fillers.

From the mild garlic to Flaming Hot, which incorporates bird’s eye chilli, there is something for everyone.

We tried out Farmer’s Bratwurst (RM10.50) and Iberico Pork (RM12.90).

The Iberico had a deeper, smokier flavour, while the former is flavoured with parsley for a herbier taste.

Both were well-seasoned and coarse in terms of texture, which provided great mouthfeel.

Australian Lamb Shoulder Chop.Australian Lamb Shoulder Chop.

For something a bit heartier, try the Grilled Pancetta at RM17.80 on its own or with a choice of one side dish at RM25.30.

Here, the meat has been slow-cured and lightly smoked using natural wood chips.

While it is often compared to bacon, the pancetta has a deeper, pure pork flavour.

A side dish of mashed potatoes or home-made coleslaw would pair well with this.

Ho’s famed Crispy Roast Pork (RM17.50) is not to be missed.

The tender meat with distinctly crispy skin, paired with a spicy and tangy chilli dip, was a flavourful morsel with every bite.

While most of the dishes are best enjoyed as sharing portions, none beats the 700g Tomapork (RM88).

This massive cut of pork loin is served with some of the rich and succulent belly left on.

Butcher and restaurateur Ho is back in Kuala Lumpur’s dining scene and is helped by his family, including his daughter Tiffany.Butcher and restaurateur Ho is back in Kuala Lumpur’s dining scene and is helped by his family, including his daughter Tiffany.

A slightly sweetened glaze enhances the sweetness of the meat without overpowering it, and gives it a nice crust.

The dish is also served with a generous portion of fries and coleslaw.

Looking at The Signature Salted Beef (RM39.50), one could assume that a plate of raw beef had arrived at the table.

But this could not be further from the truth.

Here, the meat, after a seven- to 10-day brining process, is simmered for several hours.

The result is a meltingly tender, slightly salty and flavourful beef.

A pile of sauerkraut and English mustard gives texture and flavour contrast.

Other dishes include the Australian Lamb Shoulder Chop (RM45.90) as well as pasta and fried rice dishes.

THE BUTCHER’S TABLE, Level 7, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2110 4438) Business hours: 10am to 10pm, daily. Non-halal.

This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.

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