Servings of creative concoctions


  • Eating Out
  • Friday, 20 Mar 2020

Potato Gnocchi with mushroom cream, baby morels and hazelnut, topped with fresh shaved truffles.

SIMPLE dishes with a combination of different flavours and an element of surprise.

This is Fabrice Bruto’s description of his culinary creations.

Diners can look forward to such a meal at Sofitel Kuala Lumpur Damansara’s Nizza since his appointment as the hotel’s new executive chef.

Prior to joining the team at Sofitel, Bruto was executive chef at The Langham in Shenzhen, China, where he improved his culinary techniques and skills.

With more than 20 years of experience gained from working in hospitality establishments in Europe, the United States and Asia, the chef emphasises the importance of quality, attention to detail and perfection along with an intense passion for cooking.

Nizza is the hotel’s speciality restaurant and Bruto’s influence is evident in its latest menu which features French and Mediterranean flavours.

Dinner was off to a promising start with starters like Eggplant Capunanita (RM48) comprising home-made smoked duck breast, garden rocket, pine nuts and flat bread.

I enjoyed how the smoked duck and rocket enhanced the taste of the dish while the pine nuts added crunchiness.

“I love using smoked items as they add flavour and aroma,” said the chef.

We also had Burrata Mozzarella (RM58) comprising watermelon, tomato crumble and olive oil espuma, accentuated with balsamico pearls.

“This is a common starter usually eaten with tomatoes. But for my version, the tomato is in crumble form,” he said.

Bruto’s love for smoked items is also present in the Cauliflower And Fennel Soup (RM42) which has smoked salmon and slow-cooked egg.

It was served with anchovy puff, an addictive treat that leaves one wanting more.

The combination of different ingredients provided a wonderful balance in taste and texture while the lime caviar added a hint of tanginess to accentuate the soup.

Another soup we enjoyed was Beetroot Cold Gazpacho Soup (RM32).

I usually prefer my soups warm but the cold gazpacho was quite a delight and the tomato bruschetta a tasty accompaniment.

While speaking to the chef, the aroma of truffles caught my attention.

Turns out it was my order of Potato Gnocchi (RM68), prepared with mushroom cream, baby morels and hazelnut, topped with fresh shaved truffles. It was one of our favourites that night.

A good choice for those who love seafood is Risotto Cooked in Bisque Sauce (RM78) as it is served with clams and shrimps.

We also sampled other options like Stuffed Calamari With Lamb Chorizo and Seeds (RM98) and Monk Fish Bouillabaisse Style (RM118).

The calamari was not chewy and lovely on the palate while the fish stew (bouillabaisse) was the perfect comfort food.

Provencal Chicken Roll (RM85) was another showcase of creativity with its capsicum pudding.

For dessert, we opted for all the three choices offered.

The Rhubarb Puree (RM38) served with Peach and Basil Soup and Ginger Ice Cream was a rather unique creation.

The unexpected combination of rhubarb, basil and ginger was another example of the chef’s skill and the result was a delight to the taste buds.

We also had Chestnut Fondant (RM42) served with ice cream.

In my book, there is always room for tiramisu and The Nizza Tiramisu (RM38) did not disappoint.

In addition to the new menu, Nizza has a range of signature cocktails and fine wines to complement its dishes.

NIZZA, Level 3, Sofitel Kuala Lumpur Damansara, No 6, Jalan Damanlela, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2720 6688. Email: ha123-fb4@sofitel.com) Business hours: 6pm to 10.30pm daily.

This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.

In light of the Covid-19 movement control order, Nizza will be closed until March 31.

It resumes operations in April.


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