Clever play on flavours


Pan-roasted Nordic Salmon with kaffir lime leaf oil, tamarind emulsion, grilled leek and oven-dried tomatoes.

A LOT of work goes into making a seemingly simple looking plate of food.

Within the simplicity lies skill from years of training under a world-renowned chef and passion in the culinary arts.

All this is reflected in an elegant degustation menu featured in Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur’s Horizon Grill, designed by chef de cuisine Daniel Wong.

Wong’s illustrious career included helming notable positions in Beijing, Hong Kong, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, and being under the tutelage of the late Joel Robuchon.

His big break was working at Robuchon’s three Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Hong Kong.

Wong’s meticulous attention to detail unleashed in the Hamachi Crudo starter of Japanese amberjack with lime and hazelnut vinaigrette, coriander, celery leaves, orange slice, red chilli, sea lettuce, pickled shallots and red radish.

The clever combination of flavours clearly showed his talent and respect in the preparation of each ingredient which harmonised flawlessly.

Horizon Royal is a decadent arrangement of rice pudding, hazelnut crisp, devil sponge cake, chocolate caramel, balsamic sauce and chocolate ice cream.Horizon Royal is a decadent arrangement of rice pudding, hazelnut crisp, devil sponge cake, chocolate caramel, balsamic sauce and chocolate ice cream.

With our taste buds whet, we were ready to dive into the next dish, where hazelnuts made another appearance in the Foie Gras Terrine, embellished with sun-dried prune puree, candied hazelnut soil, buttermilk brioche and micro cress.

The brioche is baked in-house and Wong assured that the foie gras came from a halal-certified supplier.

“Crunchy, salty and sweet are the textures you get in this dish,” he said.

Indeed, a clever play on flavours kept us pining for the next dish of a delectable Free Range Chicken Consomme, which looked like clear liquid gold.

Foie gras ravioli and julienned local herbs, namely local ulam and coriander, nestled in a bowl swimming in the richly flavoured consomme derived from the essence of local Sakura chicken.

“The deep colour of the liquid comes from the chicken, and the eggless dough for the ravioli consists of Japanese flour and water to make it light on the palate,” said Wong.

Another bowl of just the luscious consomme would have been a dream, but we had to make room for the Lamb Ragout Pappardelle braised in port wine, porcini and shaved pecorino.

Wong insisted on having the Australian lamb rump hand-chopped for a textural experience, combined with finely diced

vegetables that lent some sweetness to the dish.

A variety of salts and sauces can be enjoyed with the filet mignon at Horizon Grill. — Photos: LOW LAY PHON/The StarA variety of salts and sauces can be enjoyed with the filet mignon at Horizon Grill. — Photos: LOW LAY PHON/The Star

The main course offered a choice of Pan-roasted Nordic Salmon with kaffir lime leaf oil, tamarind emulsion, grilled leek and oven-dried tomatoes or Goulbern Valley Beef, comprising filet mignon, Cameron tomato salsa, coriander, garlic and extra virgin olive oil.

“Our female diners love the salmon and it is one of our bestsellers,” said Wong.

He revealed that the combination of the tamarind and kaffir lime leaf oil was reminiscent of asam laksa, which was clearly attested to with every bite.

Adding to the exciting dining experience was the option for diners to choose from beautifully handcrafted steak knives to slice into the beef.

The fillet mignon, medium done to perfection, was delicate in its simplicity with tangy tomatoes, dusted with Sarawak black, white and red pepper.

A variety of salts from Pakistan like blue salt and black salt as well as sauces are available to be enjoyed with the beef.

The exquisite meal ended with the Horizon Royal, a decadent arrangement of rice pudding, hazelnut crisp, devil sponge cake, chocolate caramel, balsamic sauce and chocolate ice cream.

The degustation menu is priced at RM488+ (without wine pairing).

Goulbern Valley Beef comprising filet mignon, Cameron tomato salsa, coriander, garlic and extra virgin olive oil.Goulbern Valley Beef comprising filet mignon, Cameron tomato salsa, coriander, garlic and extra virgin olive oil.

HORIZON GRILL, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur, No 2, Level 58, Jalan Conlay, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2113 1823). Business hours: Noon to 3pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm, daily. Pork-free.

This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.


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