Storekeeper Lugut is pictured behind the counter of the Primetime Jakarta shop on Dec. 11 at the Senayan Trade Center in Central Jakarta. The small store sells exclusively secondhand clothes, some of which are brought in from abroad. (JP/Shukri Mohamed)
JAKARTA: In the shadow of Indonesia’s crackdown on imported secondhand clothing, a quieter, more exclusive form of thrifting continues to operate at the margins of legality.
High-end thrifting, driven by curated selections of rare and designer pieces, presents a sustainability success story that stands in contrast to the mass influx of cheap imported goods flooding local markets.
Unlike bulk secondhand imports sold at rock-bottom prices, high-end thrifting is rooted in scarcity, curation and consumer intention.
Sellers source limited quantities of clothing, often focusing on quality, durability and individuality.
For environmental advocates, this model directly challenges the wasteful cycles of trend-driven fast fashion.
“Thrifting is good to counteract the effects of fast fashion,” said Lugut, storekeeper at Primetime Jakarta, a secondhand clothing shop located in the Senayan Trade Centre in Central Jakarta.
“It slows consumption and encourages people to value what they buy.”
Fast fashion, characterised by rapid turnover and low-cost garments that are often discarded after a single season, contributes significantly to textile waste.
In contrast, high-end thrifting offers flexibility across price points while extending the life of existing clothing.
Consumers can search for rare or discontinued items that would otherwise end up in landfills, albeit sometimes at higher prices that reflect their scarcity.
“Thrifting is meant to ease the process of finding clothing tailored to your own preferences,” Lugut told The Jakarta Post at the store on Dec 11.
“If you are looking for something rare, thrifting allows you to find that item across different catalogues.
“Fast fashion is rigidly priced and not subject to most economic changes.”
The sourcing methods behind these collections further differentiate high-end thrifting from the bulk import trade.
Many sellers operate through personal networks and international travel rather than container shipments.
“This collection for my boss was sourced worldwide,” the storekeeper said.
“They either have the pieces sent here, or they make the purchases abroad and return.
“The end goal is to resell domestically.”
This method, however, places high-end thrifting in a legal grey area.
Indonesian law prohibits the commercial import of used clothing, a policy aimed at protecting domestic textile producers and preventing the dumping of low-quality goods.
Yet small quantities of clothing carried personally are typically categorised as personal items.
“On the subject of legality, it could be said that thrifting isn’t particularly legal here,” he acknowledged, “but because the items are limited and hand-carried, they are considered personal belongings.
“If someone purchases items in bulk, that is when it becomes illegal.”
Despite operating at a much smaller scale than mass importers, high-end thrifters often face the same social stigma.
Thrifting still carries a negative image in parts of Indonesia, associated with poverty or illegal trade, even when sellers emphasise quality, sustainability and responsible sourcing.
This perception creates an uneven playing field.
While cheap imported clothing undermines local industries through volume and low prices, curated thrifting targets a niche market seeking items unavailable elsewhere.
“Considering the items are curated and segmented toward a particular market, buyers are generally seeking things they cannot find elsewhere,” Lugut said.
For many young Indonesians, high-end thrifting also represents a cultural shift toward conscious consumption.
It appeals to those who want individuality without supporting environmentally harmful production cycles.
“I enjoy working in the thrifting industry,” the reseller added.
“I highly suggest young people who are looking for niche fashion products at reasonable prices to consider thrifting.”
As Indonesia balances sustainability goals with economic protectionism, high-end thrifting is based on the premise that reducing waste and promoting reuse is a business model that can coexist with regulations designed to block secondhand imports.
For now, curated thrifting is quietly reshaping how fashion is consumed in urban Indonesia. Among those drawn to the store, not all visitors arrive with the intention to buy. — The Jakarta Post/ANN
