After three decades as a culinary landmark on eastern Hong Kong Island, Kam Shing Restaurant will serve its final meal this Saturday, with the second-generation owner saying he is closing the business to embark on a journey of personal growth rather than succumbing to financial pressure.
Opening in 1992 and relocating to a smaller storefront in 2019, Kam Shing has become a Shau Kei Wan Main Street East staple where the wok hei, or smoky “breath of the wok”, is guaranteed, and every meal comes with a heavy side of old Hong Kong nostalgia.
While many flock there for their legendary crispy baked pork chop rice and Macau chicken rice pilaf, the diner has earned its reputation for more ambitious Cantonese fare, most notably its giant grouper dishes, which became a hallmark of its craftsmanship.
Recent restaurant closures have been blamed on the city’s sluggish economy and a structural shift in residents opting to spend across the border, but Aman Kwok Hei-man, 36, the second-generation owner of Kam Shing, quickly dispelled rumours of financial distress.
“Everyone knows the economy has its problems for a lot of restaurateurs, but it’s a misunderstanding to think that’s why we are closing. This is purely a personal decision. We simply want to take a break after all these years,” Kwok told the Post.
The eatery announced on social media on Sunday that it had made the difficult decision to bid farewell to diners, adding that it had held many cherished memories since its opening and would long remember the bonds it had forged with the community.
The decision, which Kwok weighed for two years before finalising it in December, was driven by a desire to pursue personal growth, despite the business performing well and enjoying the support of the neighbourhood.
“If you are in the catering industry, the working hours are definitely very long. You become out of touch with society in a way,” he said.
“One of the reasons I am closing is that I feel it is time to reclaim my sense of social connection. I just want to try things on my own.”
Having grown up in the industry, with six years at the restaurant’s helm, Kwok said he refined his resume to pivot into the food supply sector, hoping to use his experience as a former client to bridge the gap between suppliers and restaurateurs.
He recalled being asked during a job interview why a former boss would want to become an employee again. Admittedly unsure of the answer, he chose to speak from the heart.
“I want to take that perspective of a former owner and ask: can we build longer-term relationships? Can we look further ahead? I want to see if I can do a better job of supplying food by understanding exactly what a restaurant owner needs.”
While Kwok’s 16 employees had largely found new jobs, his regular customers rued what they were losing.
James Yao Tao-yee, 70, a retiree who has been a regular patron twice a month for eight years, said he only learned of the closure when he arrived on Monday, describing the eatery as a “delicious canteen” with irreplaceable variety.
“I was originally drawn in by the giant grouper, but their baked pork chop rice and Macau chicken rice pilaf are truly unparalleled,” Yao said. “It’s amazing how they offer everything from stir-fry and claypot rice to Western-style dishes – and all of it is delicious.”
Claudia Lau Ka-la, 50, who works in the insurance industry, was among other diners queuing to secure a table for a farewell meal.
“I wanted to cherish these last few days and eat here more often,” Lau said, adding she enjoyed the restaurant’s seasonal clay pot rice, steamed fish and signature baked pork chop rice the most.
“It’s such a pity for Hong Kong’s dining scene. They are a very family-oriented business. It’s a loss, but we are here to support Hong Kong’s catering industry until the very end.”
Kam Shing’s exit concludes a sombre month in the city’s dining scene, following the departure of the 23-year-old Pizza-BOX chain on Tuesday and the coming closure of 50-year-old Sammy’s Kitchen in Sai Ying Pun. -- SOUTH CHINA MORNING POST
