Chefs prepare their dishes before service at a monthly supper club in Kuala Lumpur. -- -- Photo: Hadi Azmi/SCMP
KUALA LUMPUR (SCMP): When Zack Sze left for Hong Kong four years ago, Kuala Lumpur’s fine dining scene was rather predictable, dominated by familiar culinary trends that offered little in terms of innovation.
Back then, molecular gastronomy and deconstructed dishes were limited to a highly exclusive clientele, with most diners still bound by Western traditional tastes of what constituted a fancy meal – typically meticulously prepared French dishes, elegantly plated and paired with expensive wines.
But when Sze moved back earlier this year, he found an entirely different landscape – a vibrant scene driven by the adventurous new tastes of young Malaysians and bursting with restaurants and pop-ups offering an astonishing variety of food by local chefs, all showcasing their own unique interpretations of Malaysian food and flavours.
“I was shocked. Four years ago, where was all this?” Sze said over a serving of hanwoo beef tartare flavoured with sambal hijau, a local chilli condiment typically served at Malay homes and restaurants.
Five dishes prepared by the five chefs who collaborated for the supper club meeting in Kuala Lumpur. - Photo: Hadi Azmi /SCMP
Malaysia is now moving up the food chain, and competing with its neighbours – Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam – for Michelin recognition and the wave of enthusiastic tourists that the acclaimed badge can bring.
Sze, a classically trained chef and scholarship student of French culinary institute Le Cordon Bleu, was recently among a small group of people who attended a monthly supper club in a quiet suburb on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. At this club, industry professionals catch up and test new recipes on intrepid diners.
It is one of many similar set-ups that have spawned across the city, meeting a fast-growing demand for unique and more intimate food experiences that elevate the feted offerings of Malaysia’s famed nasi kandar (a steamed rice dish with various curries, side dishes, and gravies) and Chinese dai chow (hot dish) restaurants.
“Malaysian flavours are so complicated and so developed ... I think all these ventures are successful now because people are able to see Malaysian food in a different light,” Sze said.
Dewakan chef Darren Teoh looks to innovate his cuisine with daring takes on Malaysian flavours. -- Photo: Kita Food Festival
Until recently, Malaysia lagged behind Singapore and Thailand in the region’s ultra-competitive food tourism scene.
But last year, the Michelin Guide launched its first Malaysia edition, highlighting the diverse and vibrant food offerings of Kuala Lumpur and the northern island state of Penang, renowned for its rich food heritage and lively hawker culture.
The Michelin Guide’s Malaysia debut has helped accelerate the industry’s growth, according to Max Goh, the head of steamed bun specialists Da Bao Restobar in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown.
Goh, who creates gourmet baos (steamed buns) that highlight the flavours and textures that define Chinese cuisine, said younger Malaysians are especially adventurous in exploring new takes on their favourite dishes.
“If I can present my true representation of Chinese flavours on my plate, I’m happy,” said Goh, who served a five-spice cured brisket on fried mantao (bread) paired with a smooth lei cha (ground tea) sauce at the supper club night.
Despite this recent boom, Malaysia’s culinary journey of exploring flavours and techniques goes back at least a decade.
Dewakan, initially an educational project in 2015 to train chefs in experimental molecular gastronomy, has become a leader in Malaysian haute cuisine, as chef Darren Teoh introduced diners’ palates to fresh and sometimes daring takes on Malaysian flavours sourced primarily from local ingredients.
Named after the fusion of the Malay words dewa for god and makan for eat, Dewakan was the only restaurant in Malaysia to earn two Michelin stars in 2023.
(From left) Chefs Marcus Low of MadHatter Desserts, Julia Ung of Jung+Co, Sarah Tan of Minus 4 Degrees, Da Bao Restobar’s Max Goh, and Hun Yan Ng also of Jung+Co. -- Photo: Hadi Azmi / SCMP
Teoh’s pioneering efforts helped pave the way for many others to broaden Malaysia’s culinary horizons and gain Michelin recognition, such as omakase-inspired Eat and Cook led by chefs Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi and open fire maestro Kahong Lau’s Atelier Binchotan.
But climbing the ladder of gastronomic greatness and staying there are two different things.
Julia Ung, co-owner of Jung+Co and organiser of the monthly supper club, said businesses are under increasing pressure as they contend with rising food prices and chronic staff shortages.
“Independent restaurants are struggling to find staff. We are also operating at such small margins, so it becomes a challenge of how do we do proper training [of staff] while keeping costs low,” she said.
Ung and her partner, Hun Yan Ng, started the monthly supper club partly in response to those challenges, offering them a space to relax and unwind.
Inspired by the TV programme Munchies: Chef’s Night Out, the couple wanted to provide a regular casual meeting venue where chefs could gather, share their thoughts, and collaborate on new ideas, all in the spirit of their passion – cooking.
“It’s very frustrating, the pursuit [of the best dish]. But to achieve something with your own two hands is also very satisfying,” said Ung, who made the beef tartare served that night.
“Jimmy Carr said it right. It is not the pursuit of happiness, it is the happiness in the pursuit,” she said, quoting one of the British-Irish comedian’s quips. - SOUTH CHINA MORNING POST
