Distinctive by design: Arnold & Son's pursuit of revolution in watchmaking


This watch from Arnold & Son created for women, features intricate motif of gems.

More than anything else, watchmakers love to tell a good story.

After all, these stories give brands plenty of substance as well as additional legitimacy, when discoursing on something as intricate as mechanical watchmaking.

Arnold & Son is a case in point. The brand was named after John Arnold, an English watchmaker known for creating some of the most accurate marine chronometers during the 18th century.

While Arnold & Son can trace its roots back to 1764, it was only registered about two centuries later in 1995 as a Swiss company based in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

It is here where the brand develops some of its most technically advanced timekeepers, with complex in-house movements.

Only eight pieces of this Luna Magna Red Gold are produced.Only eight pieces of this Luna Magna Red Gold are produced.

Focusing primarily on symmetry, precision and skeletonised movements, the brand also takes cues from Arnold’s creative genius and operates with zero tolerance for any deviations when it comes to accuracy.

“A typical Arnold & Son timepiece is instantly recognisable with its three-dimensional movement construction that includes cantilever balance-cocks, the George V-style bridges, the quest for multi-axial symmetry and the painstakingly crafted guilloche dials that adorn the skeletonised components,” its chief executive officer Bertrand Savary says.

“We always take a different approach in terms of design,” he continues.

“You certainly cannot compare any of our watches with those from any brand. The DNA of our brand is unique, with a 100% in-house movement.”

Savary: Arnold & Son always takes a different approach in terms of design. — Photos: ARNOLD & SONSavary: Arnold & Son always takes a different approach in terms of design. — Photos: ARNOLD & SON

Having previously worked with brands like Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and Jaquet Droz, as well as independents Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth, Savary joined Arnold & Son as CEO in 2020.

He spearheaded the production of the much-celebrated Luna Magna line, which features the largest rotating moon ever built into a wristwatch, and made it a signature of Arnold & Son.

In celebration of this Year of the Dragon, the Luna Magna Red Gold was introduced. This limited edition tells the story of an encounter between a dragon and the moon.

“The challenge was integrating a solid gold dragon in 3D between the dial and the glass box.

“In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful dragon watch on the market.

“Just to give you an idea, it takes more than 30 hours to engrave that dragon,” Savary tells StarChrono.

The dragon for Luna Magna Red Gold is hand-engraved.The dragon for Luna Magna Red Gold is hand-engraved.

He believes in a hands-on approach of doing things: “A great way to see what people really want from the brand is to meet them personally.”

“We try to have collector dinners two to three times a year to meet and spend time with our clients. We received amazing feedback on the dragon piece, as they are all sold out,” he adds.

While Arnold & Son is part of Citizen Watch Group, it is fully independent. The brand is given the time and space to work on its long-term vision.

“Clients are more and more aware about the technical aspect (of watches).

“And they are also switching from mainstream brands to independent, as they also want to feel different and wear watches which are not mass produced,” Savary shares.

Arnold & Son’s complications are based on three principles: astronomy, chronometry and world time.Arnold & Son’s complications are based on three principles: astronomy, chronometry and world time.

The manufacturer produces just under 1,000 watches annually.

Arnold & Son works closely with its sister manufacturer, La Joux-Perret, to develop and create its unique movements.

Known for redefining traditional horological craftsmanship, Arnold & Son has built a solid collection of distinctive watches that are meant for people with discerning taste.

“Today, Arnold & Son’s identity is based on the brand’s ability to produce fine watchmaking complications that are linked to the heritage of its founder John Arnold – chronometry, astronomy and world time,” says Savary.

As a brand, he says, Arnold & Son is also always on the lookout for the next great revolution in mechanical watchmaking.

“David (Apothéloz, Arnold & Son’s head of product development) has a degree in material research and development, and we are always looking for new materials, stones and dial technical innovation,” he adds.

An example is the first amber dial in watchmaking history, which was launched at the Dubai Watch Week.

Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I features a new movement adapted to its dimensions.Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I features a new movement adapted to its dimensions.

In terms of sales, Savary reveals that Arnold & Son is very strong in the Middle East, the United States and Asia.

“Since debuting in the Chinese market in 2022, we have been busy developing our other markets, especially here in Southeast Asia.

“This region is very important to us.

“Our partnership with Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) here in Malaysia is also very strategic and has now become very successful too,” says Savary.

He also shares his thoughts on the popularity of connected digital timepieces, from the viewpoint of a technologically-driven mechanical watchmaker.

“For me, both worlds are complementary, and we should not be afraid of connected watches,” he says.

It can be a positive thing for the industry if the digital timekeepers are able to convince the new generations to wear watches, he notes.

“One day they will move to mechanical watches,” Savary says.


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Arnold & Son , Bertrand Savary

   

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