Thursday April 24, 2008
Winning collection from Salabianca & philosophy-Men
By OLIVIA LEE
China takes centrestage in the latest collection by Salabianca and philosophy-Men.
ALL eyes will be on Beijing come Aug 8 as the city plays host to what has been touted as the grandest Summer Olympics.
Amber Chia shows off a beaded dress with dragonfly motif and hemline pleats. The former imperial capital has been transformed into an ultra-modern cosmopolitan as it awaits the arrival of world-class athletes and avid sports fans.
China’s glorious past, however, is still evident at tourist sites like The Great Wall of China, Tiananmen Square, The Forbidden City and its many beautiful temples.
This year, Salabianca and philosophy-Men join in the fun with a collection that revolves around all things China, aptly named China Champ.
The brand’s co-founder Allan Chan said it was a “no-brainer” to base their 2008 collection around the hype surrounding Beijing.
He recalled a quote by Financial Times beauty writer Edwina Ings-Chambers that said, “When the West looks East, fashion designers’ love of oriental style blossoms.”
She said that chinoiserie – a French term for objects reflecting Chinese artistic culture – is so much a part of the Western fashion lexicon. Events such as this year’s Beijing Olympics further fuel the fact that we all long to go Chinese.
“One European designer even held a catwalk show on the Great Wall of China and this clearly shows China is much on the minds of Western brands,” Chan said, adding that China has long been an important source of fashion inspiration.
Chan and his partner Tino Soon flew the collection, crew, models Amber Chia and Jeffrey Cheng, photographer, make-up artist and the media to Beijing last month to capture the essence of China.
Soon said picking the location for the shoot was relatively easy with The Great Wall of China, The Forbidden City, The Temple of Heaven and 798 Art Zone or Dashanzi Art District providing an excellent backdrop for their colourful collection. Of course, the Olympic Stadium, where security was tight, was definitely a priority.
Jeffrey Cheng in a bolted panda motif T-shirt worn over long-sleeved Tee paired with narrow denim jeans. Salabianca
It was obvious that much care and consideration had gone into the tiniest detail in the collection. Delicate embroidery of Chinese elements like peonies, butterflies, and auspicious double-happiness and longevity symbols feature in the China Champ collection. These influences also extend to the occasion accessories such as the lovely embroidered shoes and bags.
“We want to invoke the culture and it’s also Beijing’s coming of age now,” said Soon, who did plenty of research on Oriental costumes and fabrics.
The cut and styling show touches of chinoiserie but are decidedly modish, contemporary and very wearable.
Indeed, Salabianca continues to champion occasion wear that is utility but trendy, featuring their signature coordinates of mix ‘n’ match tops and bottoms, as well as the occasional dress.
This collection also pays tribute to the ancient art of Chinese knotting, with exquisitely hand-knotted buttons completing most of the outfits, mandarin collars on jackets, floral and bamboo prints, bright fuchsia pink and dangling tassels.
China Champ also displays a modern spin on iconic Chinese wardrobe staples such as the qipao, Mandarin collars and Mao-suits.
Another staple of this “embellishment establishment” is, of course, the exquisitely hand-sewn add-ons. This time, it takes on a fascinating twist with lots of beading. The use of precious jade lends an elegant and creative touch. The extravagant beading technique and designs are influenced by the lavish costumes of the Beijing Opera.
Chan said hand-stitching adornments is a dying art, referring to one particular blouse with 1,000 tiny roses stitched onto it.
“Not many people are willing to do it now. It is such a tedious job. But every piece, once completed, has so much soul in it.”
The beads used, he added, are not of one size. “They have to be in various sizes to give the outfit that 3D effect. That’s what makes it stand out.”
A blouse, he said, could take up to two weeks to complete.
Soon added that it required perseverance to complete a piece. “But once it’s done, you look at it and wonder how giving up was even an option.”
philosophy-Men
Chic sportswear coordinates that are stylishly urban are the staple of philosophy-Men. The collection features comfy sweatshirts, trek-friendly shorts, groovy Tees, lanky slacks and restyled tracksuits that are right for all occasions.
Soon described the label as “fun and good for Asian with fitting cuts”.
He said many of the designs contained Oriental motifs and included important icons, like the panda, for instance, which adorns fun Tees. The image of the black and white bear is either made out completely of sequins or outlined with bolts and nuts.
On whether men might find sequins of a huge cuddly animal fronting a T-shirt a tad effeminate, Soon said: “I don’t think so. It all depends on the person who wears it. Put it on David Beckham and it’ll still look masculine.”
The Mao jacket and Mandarin collar have been reinvented with a touch of panache and contemporary styling. This typical Chinese cut has been creatively updated and woven into the styling of an array of shirts, Tees, pants and jackets.
Colours like military green and yellow stars against bright chilli red are present. Coolie pants for instance, are the new comfort wear for the fashion-savvy.
More sober is Chinese embroidery showcasing eclectic elements such as the auspicious double-happiness and longevity symbols, and a scattering of exquisitely hand-knotted buttons on some of the outfits.
A fashion show to celebrate China Champ’s all things China will be held at MidValley Megamall’s Centre Court at 7.30pm today. The China Champ photo shoot was made possible thanks to Alliance Bank, MAC Cosmetics, 8 Style (8TV), Mid Valley Megamall and Holiday Tours.
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