The trials and tribulations of Sarajevo are being replaced with good tidings

The Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel is the oldest Orthodox church in Sarajevo, dating back to around 1539. Despite the Bosnian capital’s painful past, international tourist arrivals have tripled since 2004.

Sarajevo is a lively and fascinating place to visit – a far cry from its war-torn days.

If you dare to visit, and I’m glad I did, you’ll eventually stand beneath the elegant geometry of Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque (built in 1530) or sip a beer at the Sarajevo Brewery (founded 1864) or tiptoe atop the stone walls of the White Fortress, staring out at a 300° panorama of mountain slopes, red-tiled roofs, soaring minarets and far too many cemeteries.