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Friday February 7, 2014 MYT 12:50:00 PM
Friday February 7, 2014 MYT 1:00:38 PM
by ellen wulfhorst
The looks by Nicholas K, which opened New york Fashion Week, evoked a post-apocalyptic world. - AFP
Clothes display sombre hues but with global character.
A GALA week of designer fashion shows kicked off on Feb 6 in New York, where insiders said to expect everything from fringe and shearling to pared-down monochrome on styles coming down the runways.
Nicholas K, a brother-and-sister design team based in New York, was first out of the chute at the official Fashion Week, staged at Manhattan’s Lincoln Center, with oversize anoraks and folded, draped sweaters in somber hues of midnight blue, grey heather and indigo, with dashes of burgundy.
Hundreds of designers will be showing their creations for next fall on runways and showrooms across New York through to Feb 13, when the week is capped off with shows by powerhouses Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.
Fashion Week comes around every six months in New York, followed by weeks of fashion shows in London, Paris and Milan.
New York’s Fashion Week draws some 232,000 people to more than 500 shows, according to statistics from the mayor’s office.
The fashion industry employs more than 180,000 people in New York City.
The looks by Nicholas K evoked a post-apocalyptic world with models clad in asymmetrical black leather jackets, baggy shorts rolled up over leggings, fur hoods and clunky black rubber boots.
The looks seemed fitting given the heaps of snow outside, and more snow is forecast for the weekend.
Livening up Nicholas K’s style were one-shouldered bras paired with loose, low-slung drawstring trousers, with plenty of bare midriff in between.
Expect to see plenty more oversized separates in coming shows, said Sheila Aimette, vice president of North American content at fashion trend forecaster WGSN.
“Before, you would have a voluminous top and a more slim bottom. But now, everything has a lot of volume for this season,” she said.
BCBGMAXAZRIA unveiled colour-blocked caftan dresses, tunics and fur capes, using stripes and squares of mauve, burnt orange and mint green to accent black, navy, camel and pewter solids.
Mid-length skirts were straight and slit, dresses sported cut-out open backs and hems were asymmetrical.
The runway looks of BCBGMAXAZRIA were inspired by the landscape and scenery of Louisiana and the bayou, said Lubov Azria, who designs the line with her husband Max Azria, ahead of the show.
“It has this southern feel to it,” she said.
Ken Downing, fashion director at retailer Neiman Marcus, said he expects to see designs influenced by an array of global cultures, evidenced by leather, shearling and fringe as well as less-embellished single-colour dressing.
“We’re either going to have something that’s very pared down with a bit of a classic sensibility, or this injection of a very global idea,” Downing said. “There’s always more than one message on the runway.” Expect also to see a lot of gray, he said, from the palest oyster and dove to rich charcoal, matched with neutrals such as blush or peach.
“Gray adds real elegance to a woman’s wardrobe, and it certainly becomes a nice foundation for the really rich colors that often appear on the runway for the fall season,” he said. – Reuters
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