Published: Saturday December 21, 2013 MYT 12:00:00 AM
Updated: Saturday December 21, 2013 MYT 8:28:25 AM

The baking monks

Trappist monks Brother Thomas (left) and Brother Paul packaging fruitcakes at the Assumption Abbey near Ava in south-west Missouri in November. - Photos Kansas City Star/MCT

Trappist monks Brother Thomas (left) and Brother Paul packaging fruitcakes at the Assumption Abbey near Ava in south-west Missouri in November. - Photos Kansas City Star/MCT

Bell tolls changing times at abbey, but the fruitcake is everlasting.

OFF the hilly blacktop and down a red dirt drive, fog sits in the Ozark pine forest.

It’s early.

Like 3.15 in the morning early. Someone pulls a rope and a bell tolls.

Inside an old building, Boniface, 87, the cook, rises from his bed. He’s a short, slight man who grew up around Chicago and will smile through a missing front tooth if you can get him to tell an Al Capone story.

Down the hall, Thomas, the mechanic, stirs. He’s 85 and spent his youth on a Wisconsin dairy farm. He still rides a bike.

Robert, 88, an Irishman from Minnesota, is up on the hill in a cabin no bigger than a shed. He probably hears the bell, but it doesn’t wake him. He’s been up since 1. He’s always up at 1.

These men came here a half-century ago, or longer, and never left. They and the other Trappist monks at Assumption Abbey chucked their early lives like shirts that no longer fit and gave themselves to God.

They pray, work, meditate, chant and make fruitcakes. Fun? Of course they have fun.

According to abbey literature, for entertainment “there is the change of seasons, the song and flight of birds, the romping with the dogs in fresh fallen snow”.

Résumés aren’t exactly rolling in. Thus the problem.

These monks arrived here as young men, and now, though mostly spry in step and spirit, they are old. With meals still to fix, equipment to repair, grounds to tend and cakes to bake.

And no young Trappists have come to help. For a while, it looked like Assumption Abbey, established in 1950 in these woods about four hours south-east of Kansas City, would have to close.

But help is now coming from the other side of the world.

Trappist monk Father Cyprian decorating fruitcakes.
Trappist monk Father Cyprian decorating fruitcakes.

By the end of the year, four young monks from Vietnam will have arrived at this Ozarks abbey. Four more will come in 2014. Over time, perhaps a decade, Assumption will change from Trappist to Cistercian order. The two share roots – Trappist is a reform of Cistercian.

Still, there are mixed emotions, said Father Cyprian, 83.

“On the one hand is the failure that we can’t continue what we began,” he said. “On the other, we have this place to pass along for others to carry on.”

It would be 10 years before young Trappists could come and save the day.

“We don’t have 10 years,” Cyprian said.

Under the question “What is a monk?” on the Assumption Abbey website, the answer begins: “A monk is a man who practises dying as a way of life.”

Boniface comes across as someone who missed that memo. He wears a red hat and bounces between stoves in the kitchen. On some days, he bakes 40 loaves of bread.

“You know the difference between a chef and a cook?” he asked as he boiled squash and eggplant. “A cook has to do his own pots and pans.

“I came here in 1954 and had no idea what I was doing when they made me cook. Singed my eyebrows the very first day. Sometimes I make mustgo soup. I go through the refrigerator and say, ‘This must go’.”

Then: “When I was a kid, we had to sneak off to Chicago to see The Song of Bernadette because there were too many Protestants in Oak Park.”

And: “Try an oatmeal cookie. They’re my job security.”

Folks, he’s here all week. And has been for six decades.

“Be hard to bury old Bonny and keep him down,” Cyprian said with a smile.

The rest of the answer to the question “What is a monk?” goes on to say that a monk dies to his egoism and his illusions about who he is and what life is about.

“At the same time that he is dying, he discovers an exhilarating freedom for life and for love.”

They live celibate lives and give up all possessions. They own nothing. If one receives cookies from a family member, he shares with the others.

Like most of the monks at Assumption Abbey, Cyprian came from the New Melleray “mother house” outside Dubuque, Iowa. Again like the others, he speaks fondly of his youth. He didn’t choose a monastic lifestyle because of problems or despair. He grew up in La Porte, Indiana, riding his bike and playing ball. His father ran a gas station.

“Sure, it was a struggle at first,” Cyprian said. “But then it came to me – ‘Yes, this is God’s will; this is the truth.’ ”

Jill Johnson, the abbey’s guest master, who runs the office, said the most difficult thing to adjust to is the quiet.

“Particularly at night when one is dying,” she said. “It can be deafening. But they are prayerful, and this is the life they chose.”

Work begins in the bakery shortly after breakfast.

Some Franciscan monks, who live on part of the abbey’s 1,375 hectares of hills and hollows, lend needed help. Every day this crew makes 125 fruitcakes. The sale of more than 30,000 cakes annually provides the abbey its revenue stream.

Price: US$32.50 (RM106.50) for online and mail orders, US$23 (RM75) at the abbey gift shop.

For years before starting fruitcakes in 1990, the monks made concrete blocks.

“We had to change the recipe slightly,” Cyprian joked. “And fruitcakes are easier to stack.”

Each day begins with Joseph Reisch, the baker, breaking about 22 dozen eggs. The fruit mixture – pineapples, cherries, raisins, walnuts – is soaked in wine. By 9am, all 125 cakes are in an oven. The same oven. It came from a St. Louis supermarket.

“This thing is built like a tank,” Reisch said.

At another table, cakes baked the previous day are injected with Castillo Gold rum – at eight strategic points – and the tops are decorated with pecan and cherry halves. The cakes are then brushed with corn syrup.

Finally, the monks bless the 900g cakes with a prayer.

“Bless now these creations of our hands, that these cakes may be received as tokens of your love ...”

The cakes then age six weeks before shipping.

Through the work, Elijah, the old abbey dog, sleeps on the sidewalk outside.

For a hermit, Father Robert, 88, sure is happy to see company pull into his rocky drive.

Big smile, bright eyes and a long, white beard that blows in the breeze like a sheet on a clothesline.

“Hello!” he greeted his visitors a recent day.

His cabin on the hill might be 27sq m. Big enough.

“Just God and myself,” he said.

He is the oldest of the Trappist monks at Assumption. Donald, 91, is in a nursing home in Ava. When it’s time, he will be brought “home” to die. The abbey has an infirmary wing for that purpose.

They will probably all be there someday, a choice made decades ago.

None voices any regrets about their lives. Anything they missed, they chose to miss. “I’ve accomplished everything I’ve wanted except to join my brothers in the cemetery,” Cyprian said.

The cemetery is right outside the abbey’s back door. A recent morning, Cyprian walked among the 14 graves.

“I knew them all,” he said.

Then he added, “We were young once.” – The Kansas City Star/McClatchy-Tribune Information Services

Tags / Keywords: Lifestyle, fruitcake, Trappist monks, Assumption Abbey, baking


  1. Who art thou, William? 4 Shakespearean mysteries unsolved after 450 years
  2. Sitar star Kumar Karthigesu wants music fans on his string voyage
  3. Do your research before getting a critical illness insurance
  4. Felda's proven track record a model to follow
  5. Cutting back on salt saves lives
  6. Prequel alert: Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon in New Zealand
  7. Malaysia's seahorses finally get the right kind of love
  8. Men, not every woman is out to get you
  9. Must-watch: Meteor lights up Russian night sky, caught on video
  10. What's tops in Kuala Lumpur