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Wednesday September 3, 2014 MYT 12:00:00 AM
Friday September 5, 2014 MYT 5:39:32 PM
by bervin cheong
From bulky silhouettes to modern sensibility, the Autumn/Winter 2014 collections feature a myriad of designs.
A mix of menswear trends sets the stage for Autumn/Winter 2014.
NOW that the season is upon us – and key pieces from various designer labels have arrived in stores, we take a look at the trends that will be setting fashionable men apart from the rest of their ilk.
From an airy approach in layering to a fixation with linear patterns, plus what’s beautifully diverse, blue or sporty, the current Autumn/Winter season for menswear is nothing if not eclectic.
Layer me loose
As much as Autumn/Winter necessitates thicker clothing, exaggerated and loose forms take it to a whole new level. There is a noticeable increase in the bulk of the male silhouette on runways this season.
The varied pieces from Fendi denote a luxe look. As a brand born from the furrier business, it is within its element. Apart from large outerwear with fur embellishments, Fendi is showing that layering layers on more layers works too.
Calvin Klein’s Platinum label presents clean, sleek looks but with a twist on the fit. An unexpected cosy luxury is affected with big pieces like cocoon bombers, maxi sweatshirts and kimono coats.
Gucci has designs that are fluid and soft. There is an oversized, lush tunic shirt made of wool and bonded underneath with fabric, for instance. A beautifully large shearling overcoat happens to be another standout piece.
Line them up
When it comes to dual-tones, nothing says it better than the use of stark colours. This however, has been sharpened into lines that cut across designs in vibrant and appealing shades.
DKNY plays with colour blocking but refines it within a linear edge. Lines also make an appearance but they seem a whole lot more attractive when casually and haphazardly thrown into designs.
BlackBarrett, a younger offshoot of the Neil Barrett line, stays true to its uncluttered design DNA. The season’s colour story focuses on fine stripes engineered into each piece – either as a border detail or exaggerated graphic.
McQ by Alexander McQueen uses a straight edge to break away from the mundane, as well. This however, has been moulded into standout patterns. A mohair patchwork sweater and laddered pattern pullover, amongst others, set the tone for a punk spirit.
Exhibiting an offbeat sleight of hand are designs that take on a free-spirited vibe. Eschewing any allusions of being dated and dull, the creatively put-together looks bring about a contrasting feel of the contemporary.
For Autumn/Winter 2014, Burberry Prorsum departs on what it describes as a “painterly journey”. A soft draping of scarves adds a cool yet languid touch, and the Burberry trench coats come artfully updated with prints.
Kenzo focuses on the idea of how perceived industrial elements can be broken and reinterpreted. A sort of a day labourer look is observed in chunky-soled work boots, paired with ribbed spread, collared crop jackets and coats.
While Saint Laurent continues looking back to a past era for inspiration, the influence is now more grounded. Keeping its men current, the label marries a rebellious rocker attitude with popular menswear elements such as tweed and houndstooth.
Sport the reference
In bringing their A game to the runway, designers are sending out a more literal interpretation of sportswear. Despite utilising sophisticated fabrics, the designs in play still embody active wear in its most quintessential form.
Givenchy for example, channels an urban atmosphere by combining the sobriety and geometry of basketball imagery. Inspiration comes not only from the sport itself, but the court too – in terms of materials utilised for abstract prints.
Alexander Wang’s designs highlight a modern take on traditional menswear and a strong emphasis on fabrication. The influence of sportswear is hard to miss, with baseball sweatshirts and raglan sleeve jackets making an appearance.
John Galliano designs comprise leggings reminiscent of track pants. Above the waist, it is a slim combination of high-tech sporting elements and urban slickness that really wins big.
Boys in blue
You may have seen male celebrities walking the red carpet in white suits, but blue happens to be in demand on the runway. When it comes to traditional tailoring, the colour seems to work wonders.
This season’s jackets from Giorgio Armani resemble classic cardigans. While the borrowed raglan shoulders and sculpted torsos are appealing, it is the all-blue head-to-toe looks that truly catches the eye.
Amongst the different designs from Lanvin, an appropriation of a cooler, classic two-piece is something to look out for. On the runway, the label’s navy suits are given depth when paired with loud colours and patterns.
Jil Sander’s recent release leans towards a mixture of minimal silhouettes and a futuristic vibe. When it comes to the colours, shimmering blues in a stiff finish are big hits.
Tags / Keywords:
Autumn/Winter, menswear, trends
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